Evaluation of the tolerance limits of fabric properties for optimizing garment manufacturing

Informazioni relative al progetto

ID dell’accordo di sovvenzione: CR164291-BRE21537

Data di avvio 1 Gennaio 1995

Data di completamento 31 Dicembre 1996

Finanziato da

• Specific programme of research and technological development in the field of industrial and materials technologies - CRAFT -, 1990-1994

Costo totale € 0,00

Contributo UE Nessun dato

Coordinato da

Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitut an der Technischen Hochschule Aachen eV
Germany

Obiettivo

There has been found a relation between certain mechanical fabric parameters and the propensity of the fabric to produce seam pucker.
In the project, a relation was found between the dimensional problems.
The results demonstrate the big importance of the quality control of the fabrics before garment manufacturing. It has been proven that identical fabrics may show important differences in mechanical characteristics. These differences may be caused by accidents or changes during the production of the fabric. If these are not under control, they may lead to important problems in the garment manufacturing.

The knit's physical - mechanical properties, which influence its behaviour in all the production process were determined and tolerance limits of the more relevant parameters defined. Problems, which may appear during the clothing manufacturing, if the physical - mechanical properties are not within the determined limits were identified. Precautions to take in production, when there is an adjustment of the machines, in order to avoid these problem were suggested. For all this a computer control system was developed.

The mechano-technological properties of wool fabrics were investigated with the Kawabata and the FAST system according to the problems in garment manufacturing. It was found out, how the fabric construction influences its properties and that the trends of the FAST and Kawabata results, measuring the same properties, are comparable. Which of the 86 fabric results of each fabric has a relevant influence on the appearance of the seams, sewn under different conditions, also were investigated. The influence of several sewing parameters on the seam appearance of wool fabrics concerning seam pucker has also been investigated. The changes of the seams and the fabric parameters due to pressing, dry cleaning and washing processes were analysed also to include these results in the optimization of the manufacturing processes.

Tolerance limits for wool fabrics for unproblematic sewing were defined and practicable conditions and settings for the pressing and cleaning process were given and inserted in a computer program. The conditions for unproblematic sewing of wool jackets have been proved under practice conditions.

Campo scientifico

• engineering and technology › mechanical engineering › manufacturing engineering
• engineering and technology › electrical engineering, electronic engineering, information engineering › electronic engineering › control systems
• engineering and technology › materials engineering › textiles

Programma(i)

• FP3-CRAFT - Specific programme of research and technological development in the field of industrial and materials technologies - CRAFT -, 1990-1994

Argomento(i)

Data not available

Invito a presentare proposte

Data not available

Meccanismo di finanziamento

CSC - Cost-sharing contracts

Coordinatore

Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitut an der Technischen Hochschule Aachen eV

• Contributo UE: Nessun dato
• Indirizzo: Veltmanplatz 8 ; 52062 Aachen ; Germania
• Costo totale: Nessun dato

Partecipanti (1)

Alsico NV

Belgio

• Contributo UE: Nessun dato
• Indirizzo: 223,Zonnestraat ; 9600 Ronse
• Costo totale: Nessun dato