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LuxFaSS Report Summary

Project ID: 646489
Funded under: H2020-EU.1.1.

Periodic Reporting for period 1 - LuxFaSS (Luxury, fashion and social status in Early Modern South Eastern Europe)

Reporting period: 2015-07-01 to 2016-12-31

Summary of the context and overall objectives of the project

"- The main objective of the project is to analyse luxury, fashion and consumption in South Eastern Europe in relation with a series of processes, such as modernization and the construction of an elite. To achieve this objective we shall adopt a comparative approach and à la longue durée method, in order to highlight the shifts from one period to another within the same geographical space. In fact, luxury, fashion, and consumption are used as key-words enabling us to rediscover the past through objects, documents, languages, images, and people.

- The present research topic is highly important for those South-Eastern Europe societies that experienced the Communist regime. For a long time, history has been perverted and historical research was the first to suffer. Each step of the project brings into public debate important subjects, such as: the role of the past in the collective memory of a nation; material heritage and its relevance in re-writing the past; interpreting the Phanariot regime in the light of archival documents. We aim to connect the events and developments in the Romanian Principalities with the history of the region (Balkans), thus moving beyond the national and local historical interpretation.
The first LuxFaSS international scholarly event was organized in Bucharest, with the support of the host institution (New Europe College). Participants who gave papers and the event was attended by a large public of scholars from various disciplines, proving once more the interest of this research topic has for our society.
This European project can also be an inspiration for the Romanian researchers, as many of my colleagues understood that ERC projects are accessible even for Romanians.

Furthermore, as a recognition of the integration of Romanian historical research in the international framework, the President of Romania, Klaus Werner Johannis, awarded me the honorific medal "Ordinul National Serviciul Credincios in grad de Cavaler" / National Order of Faithful Service (rank of Knight) in a public ceremony.
http://www.presidency.ro/ro/media/album-foto/ceremonia-de-decorare-a-unor-personalitati-din-domeniul-cercetarii-unor-reprezentanti-ai-academiei-romane-si-a-unor-cadre-medicale

- The overall objectives
1. Analyse luxury in connection with power
a) the use of luxury by the Christian elites as a way of forging their identity by focusing on material goods and cultural ideas
b) the routes of goods across the South-Eastern Europe focusing on the commercial aspects and on the networks, with people involved in all kind of cultural, and economic transfer.
2. Luxury, “Europeanization” and the consumer society.
a) the emergence of the Balkan nations focusing on the „modern changes” seen as a process of „Europeanization” of these „new societies”
b) the consumer society and its definition in a new context brought about by the 19th century"

Work performed from the beginning of the project to the end of the period covered by the report and main results achieved so far

"LuxFaSS international meetings:
1. the international workshop People, Trade, Gifts and Beyond: the Circulation of Goods and Practices between the Ottoman Empire and Europe (16th-19th Centuries), Centre March Bloch, Berlin - 2016
2. the international conference Luxury and Consumption in South-Eastern Europe (15th -19th centuries). Methodological Approaches, New Europe College, Bucharest- 2016

Constanța VINTILĂ-GHIȚULESCU, Principal Investigator

Organized academic meetings
2016 October 28th -29th International conference Luxury and Consumption in South-Eastern Europe (15th -19th centuries). Methodological Approaches, New Europe College, Bucharest
2016 July 4th – 5th International Workshop: People, Trade, Gifts and Beyond: the Circulation of Goods and Practices between the Ottoman Empire and Europe (16th-19th Centuries)
Centre March Bloch, Berlin (co-organizer with Felicita Tramontana and Rosita d’Amora)
2016 March 31st Session in ESSHC, Valencia: Women, Consumption and the Circulation of Ideas in South-Eastern Europe, XVIIth - XIXth Centuries

Lectures (in Berlin)
2016 July 31st Romanian Cultural Institute – Wissenschaftskolleg zu Berlin
Paper: Mode und Soziale Identität Zu Beginn Der Neuzeit (Rumänische Fürstentümer, 18-19 J.H)

2016 May 31st Freie Universität Berlin – Friedrich Meineche Institut
Paper: Luxury and Social Status of the Romanian Boyars during the Ottoman Domination (18th – 19th centuries)

2016 April 26th Wissenschaftskolleg zu Berlin – Tuesday Colloquim
Paper: Going to the Courts: Romanian People and the Meaning of Justice (18th-19th centuries)

Conference participation:

2016 October 28th -29th International Conference Luxury and Consumption in South-Eastern Europe (15th -19th centuries). Methodological Approaches, New Europe College, Bucharest
Paper: “What do sumptuary laws say about luxury and consumption? The Romanian Principalities in the Premodern Era”

2016 September 28th -29th University of Vienna, International Conference: Governing Inter-Imperial Areas Between te Adriatic and the Black Seas
Paper: “Making a law, observing a rule: Codification and Practice in the Romanian Principalities: 1780–1834”

2016 July 4th – 5th International Workshop People, Trade, Gifts and Beyond: the Circulation of Goods and Practices between the Ottoman Empire and Europe (16th-19th Centuries), Centre March Bloch, Berlin
Paper: “On the road: commodities and travellers in the Ottoman Lands”
2016 March 30th European Social Science History Conference (ESSHC), Valencia
Paper: “Gender and Crime in Archival Research” in the session Crime, Gender and Violence in a Historical Perspective

2016 March 31st European Social Science History Conference (ESSHC), Valencia
Panel organized Women, Consumption and the Circulation of Ideas in South-Eastern Europe, 17th – 20th Centuries
Paper: “‘Curls and Forelocks’: Romanian Women Emancipation towards Luxury and Fashion, 1780-1850”

2016 February 4th-5th: Law-making and Law-interpreting: Russia, 17th to 21st centuries, Wissenschaftskolleg zu Berlin
Paper: “Count Pavel Dmitrievich Kiselyov and judicial reform in the Romanian Principalities”

Giulia CALVI, Senior Researcher
Organized academic meetings :
2016 May 12th – 14th International colloquium co-organized by Ecole Française de Rome, Società Italiana delle Storiche, Università di Padova, Université Parids Diderot-ICT and Université de Rouen Normandie-GRHis
Rome
Vingt-cinq ans après. Les femmes au rendez-vous de l’histoire, hier et aujourd’hui

Conference participation :
2016 October 28th-29th Luxury and Consumption in South-Eastern Europe (15th -19th centuries). Methodological Approaches, New Europe College, Bucharest
Paper: “Is fashion a European phenomenon?”

2016 July 4th – 5th International Workshop People, Trade, Gifts and Beyond: the Circulation of Goods and Practices between the Ottoman Empire and Europe (16th-19th Centuries), Centre March Bloch, Berlin
Paper: “Luxury comes from the East. Fashioning ‘à l’indienne’ between the Ottoman Empire and Italy (18th – 19th centuries)”

Research trips
2016 July 6th – 26th Berlin, Germany
Lipperheidesche Kostumbibliothek
2016 April 10th -16th Venice, Italy
Archivio di Stato

Artemis YAGOU, Senior Researcher
Conference participation
2016 October 28th -29th International conference Luxury and Consumption in South-Eastern Europe (15th-19th centuries). Methodological Approaches, New Europe College, Bucharest
Paper: ”The comb and the book. Some findings of object-based research on Greek women in 18th century Ottoman Empire”

2016 September 14th – 17th Second European Convention on Turkic, Ottoman and Turkish Studies (Turkologentag), Hamburg
Organized panel ‘’Non-Muslims in the Ottoman Empire’’
Paper: “Luxury and Greek Women in the Ottoman Empire in the 18th Century: Developing a Research Agenda”

2016 March 31st European Social Science History Conference (ESSHC), Valencia
Paper: “Images of Greek Women (17th-18th centuries) in the Collection of the von Parish Kostümbibliothek in Munich”

Research trips
2016 May 7th-22nd Athens, Greece –Benaki Museum, Archaeological Museum, National Historical Museum, Museum of the City of Athens, Museum of Greek Folk Musical Instruments, Centre for the Study of Modern Pottery, Library of the National Hellenic Research Foundation

2016 January 16th-25th London, United Kingdom at British Library, V & A Museum, Wallace Collection, British Museum

Liviu PILAT, Senior Researcher
Conference participation
2016 October 28th–29th International conference Luxury and Consumption in South-Eastern Europe (15th -19th centuries). Methodological Approaches, New Europe College, Bucharest
Paper: ”The concept of luxury between the history of consumption and political thought and its implications for the history of South-Eastern Europe”

2016 September 14th–17th Second European Convention on Turkic, Ottoman and Turkish Studies (Turkologentag), Hamburg
Paper: ”The Ottoman influence on Physical Appearance and Political Thought in Moldavia (16th Century)”

2015, October 23rd–24th Romanian national symposium "Zilele Universitatii Al. I. Cuza", Iași
Paper Luxul: un concept între istoria consumului și cea a gândirii politice [Luxury: a concept between the history of consumption and the history of political thought]

Research trips
2016 July 25th–31st Rome, Italy
Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale di Roma (Rome National Central Library)

Maria PAKUCS, Post-doctoral researcher
Conference participation
2016 November 10th –13th Cluj-Napoca / 700 Kolozsvar/ Klausenburg
Paper: ”Turkish goods in Sibiu/Hermannstadt”

2016 October 28th–29th International conference Luxury and Consumption in South-Eastern Europe (15th -19th centuries). Methodological Approaches, New Europe College, Bucharest
Paper: ”Ottoman cotton and silk in 17th century Transylvania: Luxury or everyday items?”

2016 March 31st European Social Science History Conference (ESSHC), Valencia
Paper: ”’Turkish’ Textiles in South-Eastern Europe: Circulation and Distribution in the Early Modern Period”

2016 July 4th – 5th International Workshop People, Trade, Gifts and Beyond: the Circulation of Goods and Practices between the Ottoman Empire and Europe (16th-19th Centuries), Centre March Bloch, Berlin
Paper: ”Long-distance and local trade in the customs accounts of Sibiu/Hermannstadt in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries”

Research trips
2016 October 17th –21st Sibiu, Romania
National Archives of Romania, Sibiu County and the Brukenthal Museum Library

2016 June 20th –24th Cluj-Napoca, Romania
National Archives of Romania, Cluj County

2016 May 15th –18th Sibiu, Romania
National Archives of Romania

Anastasia FALIEROU, Post-doctoral researcher
Conference participation:
2016 October 28th–29th International conference Luxury and Consumption in South-Eastern Europe (15th -19th centuries). Methodological Approaches, New Europe College, Bucharest
Paper: ”Fashionable dresses and luxurious consumption in the island of Lesvos: an evil for female virtue?”

2016 September 14th–17th Second European Convention on Turkic, Ottoman and Turkish Studies (Turkologentag), Hamburg
Paper: ”Non-Muslims as Agents of Westernization in the Ottoman Empire”

David CELETTI, Post-doctoral researcher
Conference participation:
2016 October 28th-29th International conference Luxury and Consumption in South Eastern Europe (15th – 19th centuries). Methodological Approaches, New Europe College, Bucharest
Paper: ”Western Luxury Goods in the Ottoman Empire. Methodological Approaches for Studying Consumption and Trade in Eastern Mediterranean”

2016 October 14th International conference Flux Réels versus Flux Immatériels, University of Clermont-Ferrand – Maison des Sciences de l’Homme Clermont-Ferrand.
Paper : ”Le commerce de luxe et la construction d’espaces immatériels. France et Empire Ottoman entre les 17e et 18e siècles”

2016 October 12th -13th 30th International Comeniological Colloquium, J. A. Comenius Museum, Unie Comenius, Institut of Philosophy of the Czech Academy of Sciences, Uherský Brod, Czech Republic
Paper: ”Frontiers within a city – state. The case of the Venetian Fondaci in Early Modern International Trade Networks”


2016 October 6th-8th International conference Balkian Worlds III: Power Networks in the Imperial and Post-Imperial Balkans (18th – 20th centuries), University of Macedonia, Thessaloniki
Paper: ”French Luxury Exports in 18th Century Ottoman Empire: Business, Diplomacy and Cultural Interchange”

2016 September 14th–17th Second European Convention on Turkic, Ottoman and Turkish Studies (Turkologentag), Hamburg
Paper: ”French Communities in 18th Century Ottoman Empire: Diplomacy, Daily Life, Trade and Cultural Interchange”

2016 June, 30th International conference La diffusion des produits ultra-marin en Europe (XVI-XVIIIe siècle), Université Paris 1 – Panthéon-Sorbonne and Université de Nantes, Nantes
Paper : ”La Cochenille à Venise. La création d’un colorant de luxe entre XVIe et XVIIe siècles”

Research trips
2016 August 30th – September 8th
2016 October 16th – October 21st } Paris, Bibliotheque Nationale de France
2016 November 23rd – December 2nd

Michal WASIUCIONEK, Post-doctoral researcher
Conference participation
2016 October 28th –29th International conference Luxury and Consumption in South-Eastern Europe (15th -19th centuries). Methodological Approaches, New Europe College, Bucharest
Paper: ”Ottomanizing Moldavian-Wallachian elites: luxury, consumption and elite identity in the 17th century imperial periphery”

2016 October 7th -9th INOCTE: International New Tendencies Congress in Ottoman Researches conference organized by Selcuk University, Sarajevo
Paper ”Researching Ottoman Political Households: Where do we go now? ”

2016 October, 4th-8th Comité International des Études Pré-Ottomanes et Ottomanes (CIÉPO)
22nd Congress organized by Karadeniz Teknik University, Trabzon
Panel co-organized with Erica Mezzoli (University of Trieste) and Mukaram Hhana (Smith College, Northampton)

2016 June 26th-28th Association for Slavic, East European and Eurasian Studies (ASEEES) – International Association for the Humanities (MAG) Summer Convention ‘’Images of the Other’’, L’viv, Ukraine
Paper: ”Constructing the Other: ‘Greeks’ and ‘Turks-at-heart’ in the Seventeenth-Century Moldavia and Wallachia”

Research trips
2016 June 13th –17th; 20th-29th L’viv (Ukraine) at the L’viv National Scientific Library of Ukraine ‘V. Stefanyk’ and Central Historical Archives of Ukraine (CDIAL)
2016 October Sarajevo (Bosnia and Herzegovina) in the archives of Bosnian Institute, Gazi Husrev-Begova Library and the Oriental Institute of the University of Sarajevo.

Nicoleta ROMAN, Scientific Assistant
Conference participation
2016 October 28th -29th International conference Luxury and Consumption in South-Eastern Europe (15th -19th centuries). Methodological Approaches, New Europe College, Bucharest
Paper: ”Women and luxury goods in 19th century Wallachia”

2016 August 24th – 27th 13th International Conference on Urban History, co-organized by University of Helsinki and European Association for Urban History, Helsinki
Paper: ”Luxury goods, consumption and social life through the lens of a Mid-19th Century Romanian urban household”

2016 May 20th -21st International Workshop ’Mobilities’ in the Black Sea Region, co-organized by New Europe College and University of St. Gallen; New Europe College, Bucharest
Paper: ”Women Travellers and (Pre)Modern Romania: Profiles, Interests and Expectations”

Research trips
2016 August, 24th - 29th Helsinki - Helsinki City Museum, Helsinki National Library
2016 December, 7th – 15th Brașov– National Archivs of Romania. Brașov County
2016 November, 7th – 11th Craiova– National Archives of Romania. Dolj County

She made the project website: together with the New Europe College technical team."

Progress beyond the state of the art and expected potential impact (including the socio-economic impact and the wider societal implications of the project so far)

Global history opened up new research paths, giving priority to comparative research on longer periods of time. In this manner, important regions were rediscovered and investigated. South-Eastern Europe is one of this regions which must be ,,explored’’ and thoroughly analysed. Emerging from the Eastern Bloc, some of the countries in this region still live under the spell of historical national myths and former Communist propaganda, used by the socialist regimes to interpret history according to their political needs. Our project intends to provide high quality research on this part of the world that will make better known its past and contribute to its understanding.

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