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REBASDO Résumé de rapport

Project ID: ENK6-CT-2000-00107
Financé au titre de: FP5-EESD
Pays: United Kingdom

New models of wave evolution in directional seas

New insights are provided into the role of local and rapid spectral changes in the evolution of large ocean waves. Specific attention is paid to the importance of directional spreading. The physical mechanisms governing the evolution of the largest waves are investigated by applying both a fully non-linear wave model and the wave evolution equation first proposed by Zakharov. These two wave models are complementary; the former allowing the full non-linearity to be considered and the latter providing insights into the dominant physical processes. In all cases the third-order (three-wave) resonant interactions dominate changes to both the amplitude of the wave components and the dispersive properties of the wave group. However, the effects of directionality are shown to be critically important, highlighting those sea states in which freak or rogue waves are most likely to occur.


Chris SWAN, (Professor of Hydrodynamics)
Tél.: +44-207-5945999
Fax: +44-207-5945991