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Tolerance limits of fabric properties for optimizing garment manufacturing

In the project, the role of the characteristics, defined by mechanical parameters of the fabrics has been investigated. There has been found a relation between certain mechanical fabric pa-rameters and the propensity of the fabric to produce seam pucker. In the project, a relation was found between the dimensional problems.

The results demonstrate the big importance of the quality control of the fabrics before garment manufacturing. It has been proven that 'identical' fabrics may show important differences in mechanical characteristics. If these are not under control, they may lead to important problems in the garment manufacturing. Before the entrance of the knits in production, the manufacturers can adjust their machines in an objective way, according to the properties of the knitted fabrics. The knit's physical/mechanical properties were determined and tolerance limits of the more relevant parameters defined. Problems were identified and precautions to take in order to avoid these problem were suggested. For all this a computer control system was developed.

The mechano-technological properties of wool fabrics were investigated with the Kawabata and the FAST system according to the problems in garment manufacturing. How the fabric construction influences its properties, which fabric had a relevant influence on the appearance of the seams, the influence of several sewing parameters on the seam appearance, changes due to pressing, dry cleaning and washing processes were all investigated. Tolerance limits for wool fabrics for unproblematic sewing were defined and practicable conditions and setting for the pressing and cleaning process were given and inserted in a computer program. The conditions for unproblematic sewing of wool jackets have been proved under practice conditions. The results also can be used as process control and help in product design and automation and as well as in communication between the textile and garment industry.

Reported by

Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitut (DWI)
Veltmannplatz 8
52062 Aachen
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