Forschungs- & Entwicklungsinformationsdienst der Gemeinschaft - CORDIS

Second order statistics of wave crest elevation

This work concerns the calculation of the probability of exceedance of wave crest elevation. Statistics have been calculated for broad-banded, random waves by incorporating a Sharma and Dean's second order wave-model into a spectral response surface method. This is a novel and extremely rapid approach to the calculation of statistics; all of the calculations are performed in the probability domain rather than by slow time-domain simulations. Moreover, in contrast to empirical distributions, the precise spectrum of the sea-state can be considered.

The results have been compared to measurements, second order time-domain and fully non-linear time-domain simulations and are shown to be in reasonable agreement. The method provides a rapid and accurate approach for crest statistics in many realistic, directionally spread seas. However, second order methods do not capture all aspects of the wave kinematics and, at least in uni-directional seas, underestimate crest elevations.

These short-term statistics can be combined with the long-term statistics of storms and the return periods of a number of extreme wave crests predicted.

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