Servizio Comunitario di Informazione in materia di Ricerca e Sviluppo - CORDIS

Development of LC-MS as a scientific method for the identification of minor dyestuff components of dye sources

Building upon previous results reported by these groups, LC-MS has been developed to allow the successful chromatographic separation and mass spectrometric identification of individual components of complex mixtures of dyestuffs as found in extracts from wool and silk dyed with historical textile dyes. Negative ion electrospray ionisation has proved to be particularly useful for flavonoids and related species. Trapping of the [M-1]- species followed by MSn fragmentation has been shown to provide additional valuable structural information. This has:
- allowed the unambiguous identification of dye sources such as young fustic, and hence allowed the preparation of fully authenticated tapestry models (WP2);
- highlighted the possibility of other dye sources, such as sawwort, being used in historical dyeing (WP2) [although, as yet, no evidence for the use of sawwort in the current tapestry dataset has been found (WP5)];
- provided evidence for the chemical characterisation of species-specific "marker" compounds such as those used for the identification of weld (luteolin methyl ether), madder (dc II), hematein (elimination compound) and brazilein (non-degraded minor component) (WP5).

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University of Edinburgh
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United Kingdom
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