Community Research and Development Information Service - CORDIS

Chemical characterisation of the effects of typical extraction procedures on neoflavonoid dyestuffs

Previous studies from these groups had shown that the typical acid extraction procedures used for the removal of textile dyestuffs from wool and silk sources may alter the products of photooxidation of flavonol dyestuffs, increasing the complexity of the analytical data as a result. In this study, we have used a variety of 2D NMR techniques in combination with LC-MS to provide unambiguous identification of the "marker" compound, which is seen after the extraction of logwood-dyed fibres (WP5). In addition, the LC-MS analysis of a "marker" compound in brazil-wood-dyed fibres has provided important clues as to the source of this compound.

This study has allowed our colleagues at the National Museums of Scotland and KIK greater confidence in the assignment of:
- 3 samples from the current historical dataset as being dyed with logwood (and hence suspected to be restoration threads);
- 16 samples from the current historical dataset as being dyed with brazil-wood.

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University of Edinburgh
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EH9 3JJ Edinburgh
United Kingdom
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