Better understanding of coastal sediment dynamics
Natural processes that act on coastlines, such as erosion and deposition of material, have a significant effect on communities and infrastructure. Likewise, human activities in these areas also have unforeseen consequences on natural processes. However, the current understanding of near-shore sediment dynamics is limited, which can lead to additional risks and costs for coastal developments and communities. An EU-funded research project, 'Morphodynamic of the swash zone: Experimental and numerical modelling' (MORPHSWASH), developed new modelling concepts to map swash zone dynamics. They looked at the dynamics of the swash zone — where waves meet land — and in particular how it is affected by natural dynamics and engineering works. As such, work focused on the phenomena that lead to beach erosion and to the interactions of an erodible seabed and an underwater pipeline. The researchers based their numerical analysis on a Lagrangian description of various flow conditions, from which they derived a number of equations. They then carried out experimental investigations in large-scale wave pools to generate a large amount of data using particle-tracking velocimeter techniques. Results were tested for many scenarios, taking into account factors such as different wave patterns and depths of water. The analysis has greatly improved the prediction of near-shore flows. Coastal infrastructure and engineering is very costly and can be vital to the safety, livelihood and quality of life for local communities and workers. By improving the state of the art in this area, the MORPHSWASH project will help to decrease uncertainty in this field.
