Skip to main content
European Commission logo print header

Innovative high-value cosmetic products from plants and plant cells

Periodic Reporting for period 1 - InnCoCells (Innovative high-value cosmetic products from plants and plant cells)

Reporting period: 2021-05-01 to 2022-10-31

The overall aim of the InnCoCells project is to develop innovative and sustainable plant-based production processes for the commercial exploitation of scientifically validated cosmetic ingredients based on underutilised plant resources. We will optimise these resources for profitable and sustainable production using cell cultures, aeroponics and greenhouse/field cultivation. We will also apply systematic approaches such as metabolic engineering to optimise growth conditions and the yields of valuable bioactive, small-molecule compounds and ingredients. The optimised processes will be demonstrated by pilot-scale production and subsequent product purification. We aim to bring at least ten cosmetic ingredients to the pre-commercial stage or market. InnCoCells includes a cascade biorefinery concept in which by-products and biowaste are utilised for the extraction of further bioactive molecules. The most promising processes will be characterised by techno-economic analysis and life cycle assessment to ensure economic feasibility and a smaller environmental footprint. The ingredients and extracts will be evaluated using a unique panel of innovative enzyme-based and cell-based assays to ensure safety and validate claimed activities based on robust scientific data without animal testing. We will implement a unique stakeholder engagement strategy, including the Stakeholder Group to guide our research program based on the needs of industry, academia, farmers, policymakers and consumers. This industry-driven and interdisciplinary project will ultimately increase the strength of the European bioeconomy by supporting the development of innovative biobased cosmetics.
We have established cell and/or plant lines from several species selected early in the project by creating a strategy for the identification of target species followed by a bioprospecting program that depended on (1) the mining and optimisation of current plant/cell culture pipelines already available from the partners, and (2) the identification of additional target plant species. In parallel, we generated a list of candidate genes for plant genetic and metabolic engineering, focusing on properties such as biomass and metabolite yield as well as the elimination of undesired compounds from plant extracts.

Cell and hairy root cultures as well as plants growing in aeroponic and field conditions were established and optimised at the laboratory scale. Growth performance and compound accumulation were monitored, and samples were provided for downstream processing. Three cell lines were scaled up to volumes of 30–40 L and one was scaled up to 200–1000 L. For hairy root cultures, all steps required to establish a robust seed train for transfer to pilot-scale production were completed and an initial 30-L verification run was successful. Experimental aeroponic culture units (20 m2) were established for four selected species. Three fields were also prepared for new plantations, two of which are still growing or already harvested.

We have investigated the impact of different drying and milling technologies on the yields of selected target compounds during extraction, as well as the use of efficient enzyme-based bioprocessing technology to modify the plant raw material in terms of structure, yield and bioactivity. Initial attempts to fractionate large volumes (> 30 L) of liquid cell suspension cultures using an innovative spiral filter press demonstrated that this technology is highly efficient, and that the optimal process parameters and cell yields are species-dependent. Laboratory-scale experiments were carried out using different solvent systems and extraction methods, focusing on extract stability. Initial experiments to recover compounds and fractions from biowaste using above-ground plant material are in process. Larger-scale extraction and purification (50 L) was tested on raspberry seed press cake. Standard operating procedures for sample extraction and extract stability have been compiled, and all bioactivity assays of interest have been identified. Similarly, targeted and untargeted metabolomics approaches have been agreed among the partners. We have started the chemical analysis and bioassays, which have already produced a significant amount of data.

Today’s biological targets in cosmetics, based on consumer demands, are to tackle acne and inflammation, ageing, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and sun damage. Additionally, consumers seek confirmation of a product’s efficacy, and we aim to prove the effectiveness of the InnCoCells ingredients scientifically. Preliminary work has begun on the techno-economic viability of processes and products as well as environmental sustainability to support public and European policy expectations.

We have set out the project’s strategy for dissemination and communication activities as well as knowledge management and the handling of new intellectual property. Activities include the project website and social media channels, project brochures and promotional videos, the launch of a podcast series, press releases, newsletters and articles in industry periodicals, and collaboration with the three other projects funded under the same H2020 topic. We have published four scientific articles and several conference presentations. We presented three public webinars and two for the consortium and invited stakeholders. We also established the Stakeholder Group to provide feedback and advice.
We will move beyond the state of the art by addressing four major bottlenecks: (1) target compounds tend to accumulate in plants at low and variable concentrations; (2) compounds can only be isolated from extremely rare or endangered plants, which are poorly characterised and unsuitable for large-scale production; (3) bioactive compounds cannot be produced on a scale that meets demand and costs, and (4) the discovery of bioactive compounds in plants is not based on systematic analysis. These bottlenecks will be overcome by implementing innovative and systematic approaches for the development and cultivation of plant lines and cell/tissue cultures and their processes, screening the bioactivities, thus leading to commercial scale-up. The expected results are: (1) the sustainable exploitation of at least 10 relevant metabolic pathways in various plant species; (2) a multi-step evaluation pipeline yielding at least 50 scientifically verified active ingredients; (3) optimised production processes and technologies for at least 20 ingredients; (4) evaluation of at least 10 agri-food by-products/waste fractions to generate added value; (5) pilot-scale production of at least 10 active ingredients, along with their economic and sustainability impact. The major direct scientific and technological impacts will include novel natural, sustainable and eco-friendly cultivation and processing methods leading to products with clear scientifically proven bioactive properties as well as the full exploitation of waste streams in a cascade biorefinery approach. The longer-term societal and socioeconomic impacts will include more public-private cooperation in the European biotechnology industry, greater public knowledge of biodiversity, ecosystems and the potential for sustainable exploitation as well as new market opportunities in the European cosmetics industry.