System Circularity and Innovative Recycling of Textiles

Project Information

SCIRT

Grant agreement ID: 101003906

DOI

10.3030/101003906

Project closed

EC signature date 18 May 2021

Start date 1 June 2021

End date 30 November 2024

Funded under

• SOCIETAL CHALLENGES - Climate action, Environment, Resource Efficiency and Raw Materials

Total cost

€ 9 211 813,01

EU contribution

€ 7 996 543,98

Coordinated by

VLAAMSE INSTELLING VOOR TECHNOLOGISCH ONDERZOEK N.V.
Belgium

Periodic Reporting for period 2 - SCIRT (System Circularity and Innovative Recycling of Textiles)

Reporting period: 2022-12-01 to 2024-11-30

Summary of the context and overall objectives of the project

The European Commission has identified the textiles sector as a priority for the Circular Economy due to its resource intensity. A key measure is the mandatory separate collection of discarded textiles by 2025. However, finding suitable outlets for the increasing volumes of collected textiles remains a challenge, as less than 1% of textile waste is currently recycled into new textile fibres. Clothing brands set ambitious targets for incorporating recycled fibres, but existing recycling processes do not meet market demands in terms of quality and cost. SCIRT's aim was to drive systemic innovation for a circular fashion system, bridging the supply-demand gap. The project demonstrates an end-to-end textile-to-textile recycling system for post-consumer textiles, focusing on recycling natural and synthetic fibres, as well as fibre blends. By engaging all relevant players along the value chain, SCIRT enhanced value retention, validates individual business cases, and quantifies financial, environmental, and social life-cycle implications. Beyond technological innovations, SCIRT also developed enabling conditions such as a True Cost Model, an eco-modulated EPR system, and a consumer behavioural flow intervention to guide purchasing and disposal decisions. Stakeholder involvement is ensured through an advisory board.

SCIRT established an actual production chain, integrating new and innovative technologies in a step-by-step garment production process. This involved improving sorting and dismantling techniques to enhance feedstock purity, increasing the quality of recycled yarns, and scaling up pilot innovations to industrial production. Key technological advancements included the development of the Fibersort and Trimclean machines for more effective sorting and dismantling, as well as a semi-automated dismantling machine by ESTIA and CETIA using laser technology, image processing, and AI for precise cutting. The complexity of aligning all production steps led to interdependencies, requiring extensive optimization and flexibility. Despite challenges in meeting timelines, the process strengthened collaboration among value chain partners, highlighting the necessity of cross-company cooperation for a successful transition to circular fashion. The improved sorting and dismantling techniques not only enhanced yarn quality but also informed future garment design, ensuring better recyclability and sustainability in the long term.

Work performed from the beginning of the project to the end of the period covered by the report and main results achieved so far

The SCIRT project achieved key milestones in circular textile economy innovation, advancing chemical and mechanical recycling of post-consumer feedstock while preparing the industry for upcoming regulations. The project produced 10 scientific publications, facilitated partnerships, and engaged in multiple initiatives, including ECOSYSTEX, T-REX, and the New Cotton Project. SCIRT raised awareness through webinars, MOOCs, and events, achieving strong visibility with press releases on the Xandres two-piece set and True Cost Calculator (TCC), which garnered six international articles. In terms of commercialization, consulting services on True Cost extend beyond garments, and B2B guidelines and sorting software can be protected via subscription. A closed-loop value chain in Europe remains a long-term milestone.

SCIRT identified eight key exploitable results, including frayed fibres for Petit Bateau’s Winter 2025 collection, prototype garments by Xandres, Bel&Bo, HNST, and Decathlon’s recyclable swimsuit. Additionally, circular.fashion’s validation tool, Valvan’s Fibersort and Trimclean Machines, and consulting services based on the TCC present further commercial opportunities. Three patents were granted, two for Valvan’s sorting machines and one for Decathlon’s Kamyla 500 swimsuit. Technological innovations included Fibersort 2.0 a robot-enhanced automated sorting system that improved speed and accuracy, achieving TRL 9. Trimclean, an automated dismantling machine, efficiently removed impurities to improve feedstock quality. ESTIA and CETIA developed a semi-automated dismantling machine integrating AI and laser technology, currently in proof-of-concept stage. Chemical recycling innovations included TU Wien’s elastane detection and removal methods, as well as chemo-enzymatic recycling of wool/PET blends. BOKU demonstrated bio-upcycling of viscose/polyamide blends into biopolymers and fibers. The True Cost Calculator, available on truecostcalculator.eu offers a self-assessment tool for measuring environmental and social impacts of garments. SCIRT's brand partners launched prototype collections featuring at least 50% recycled fibres, with Xandres, Bel&Bo, and HNST planning commercial launches in Fall 2025. Petit Bateau continues R&D on frayed fibres, while Decathlon's NEGOMBO-based swimsuit technology is patented and set for 2026 commercialization. SCIRT’s progress in circular fashion underscores the challenges and potential for sustainable textile recycling.

Progress beyond the state of the art and expected potential impact (including the socio-economic impact and the wider societal implications of the project so far)

The specific SCIRT innovations are mostly relevant for, and can be adopted by, the wider industry to fully exploit the project outcomes.
• New automatic sorting & dismantling system for post-consumer textiles that meet required specifications for textile-to-textile recycling and lower sorting costs to increase economic viability.
• New and improved recycling technologies for post-consumer textile waste that are cost-effective, with a focus on multi-fibre materials.
• Demand-driven approach to align sorting and recycling processes with garment manufacturers' design aims. Focus on market-pull of recycled materials versus today's push approach.
• New way to quantify and visualize environmental and social impacts of textile products.
• Advanced product identification and information flows throughout the value chain.
• Going beyond raising consumer awareness to address behavioural triggers driving consumer actions and linking them with material flows.
• Advanced EPR system concept that meets local needs and incentivizes circular design through eco-modulation.

SCIRT aims to deliver impacts to the textiles sector, its value chains, and stakeholders.

Environmental impacts:
• Decreased waste generation and demand for primary material inputs through closed-loop recycling solutions for discarded post-consumer textiles.
• Allowing environmental externalities of textiles to be reflected in product pricing, stimulating conscious design, production, and consumption.
• Accelerating the transition to a sustainable, circular textiles system.

Economic impacts:
• Creating new business opportunities through increased sorting, dismantling, and recycling of textiles.
• Boosting activity in the European value chain by fostering a more local system for textile-to-textile recycling and primary material cultivation, leading to job opportunities.
• Increasing competitiveness and resilience of European apparel brands and manufacturers through circularity as a differentiating strategy.

Social impacts:
• Raising public awareness and driving behavioural change on the environmental and social impacts of textile consumption.
• Promoting sustainable textile purchasing and proper garment disposal at end-of-life.
• Ensuring social externalities of textiles are reflected in product pricing, encouraging responsible design, production, and consumption.

These impacts have been delivered to multiple stakeholder groups within the European textiles industry and beyond.

Colorsort result

Recycled fibres_Petit Bateau demo

Recycling_fraying

Fibersort