The overall aim of this project is to study through theory,
laboratory and field experiments the reflection of incoming
wave energy from the shoreline and coastal structures.
The project will include:
a) field measurements of the velocity and pressure field
seaward of three representative types of coastal
b) analysis techniques based upon wave theory (eg. Whitham, 1979) to determinate the frequency-dependent reflection
coefficients (FDRF) for the field data.
c) determination of the sensitivity of the reflection
coefficient to the type of wave breaking (related to the
surf similarity parameter of Iribarren number) and to the
angle of wave approach.
d) computing of theoretical FDRF's using observed incoming wave spectra and existing estimates of shoreline energy
loss through friction coefficients, and comparison of
these theoretical results with observed FDRC's.
e) study of the influence of wave groupines on the FDRC's.
f) study of the possibility of resonance of the transmitted wave within porous structures of fixed width and its
influence on structure stability.
Funding SchemeCSC - Cost-sharing contracts
PL4 8AA Plymouth