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Demonstration and launch of high performance, biodegradable, regenerated New Cotton textiles to consumer markets through an innovative, circular supply chain using Infinited Fiber technology

Periodic Reporting for period 1 - New Cotton (Demonstration and launch of high performance, biodegradable, regenerated New Cotton textiles to consumer markets through an innovative, circular supply chain using Infinited Fiber technology)

Período documentado: 2020-10-01 hasta 2022-03-31

Infinited Fiber Company’s cellulose carbamate technology enables textile waste that is currently burned or landfilled to be turned into cost efficient, cotton-like fiber, InfinnaTM, with superior qualities. The patented process can digest cotton rich textile waste and other cellulose-based waste feedstocks. The diverse feedstock range is a technological advantage diminishing the need for virgin raw materials.
Bringing together the whole circular textile value chain, we are demonstrating an approach where post-consumer waste textiles are recycled into new fibers and textiles with considerably lower environmental impact while fulfilling brand and consumer performance requirements. In collaboration with leading global brands Adidas and H&M, the regenerated New Cotton textiles are converted to apparel and launched to consumers to validate their market.
The main objectives of the projects are the following:
1. Evaluate and develop solutions to ensure suitable feedstock of recycled textiles for commercial scale production of Infinna fibers
2. Develop, optimize and demonstrate the textile waste pretreatment process
3. Optimize and demonstrate the continuous Infinna production process in pilot scale
4. Design, produce and verify high performing and biodegradable activewear and denim clothing from Infinna fibers
5. Evaluate the recyclability, sustainability and safety of the novel textiles made from Infinna.
6. Demonstrate the consumer interest of the apparel products (denim apparels and activewear) based on recycled fibers
7. Boost the circular innovation and stakeholder collaboration in the textile sector
8. Study circular business models for bio-based textiles and develop a plan for the commercialization of Infinited Fiber Technology in Europe
In WP1, adidas and H&M outlined the specifications for the products that would be developed through the project. The creative and sustainability strategies of both companies, initial testing data and target consumers were all factors that were considered when selecting which garment would be the most appropriate to demonstrate InfinnaTM.Special emphasis was set on designing for circularity.
In WP2 a clear specification on the material demands of the sorted textile waste was made, easing procurement, and ensuring successful production of high-quality fibres. The best fibre detection technologies and handling processes to improve quality of available feedstocks were identified.. Data research on different potentially available feedstocks available for the European market was carried out.

In WP3, chemical pre-treatment development and demonstration for commercially viable cotton feedstock was initiated with trials on differently sourced textile waste feedstocks. Results from these trials led to choosing the most suitable material, mixed color post-consumer textiles, to produce 3000kg of InfinnaTM staple fibers.
The process of turning fibre into garment in a multi-stage process. In WP4, InfinnaTM was trialled in each of these processes to understand what adjustments need to be made to accommodate the new material. This included spinning, weaving, knitting and garment creation in preparation for upcoming launches. The production of the final InfinnaTM based textile apparels was started.
In WP5, a consumer profile has been identified and selected Furthermore, a launch window has been agreed as well as the selling region for the product launch.
WP6 focused on the mapping of the ecosystem to understand its gaps and explore expansion possibilities. WP6 also focused on sharing knowledge,e co-innovation and sustainable growth. Additionally it engaged in the policy making scenario, ensuring the learning experiences gathered in the project are also reflected on future European-level legislature.
In WP7, the goal and scope of the life cycle assessment was defined and the collection of inventory data for the assessment was initiated. Preparatory work was also conducted for the OEKO-TEX certification.
The TRL levels of 1) pre-processing of textile waste, 2) textile waste pretreatment, 3) carbamation, 4) dissolution and fiber spinning, 5) yarn production from Infinna and 6) Fabric manufacturing from Infinna were all at TRL 5 at the beginning of the project, with a goal of reaching TRL7 by the end of the project. All advances are on schedule as planned, and apparel produced from Infinna will be launched in October 2022.

This project demonstrates and validates a circular value chain and business model for efficient processing of post-consumer textile waste into sustainable fashion textiles. This will reduce the need for virgin cotton and accumulation of waste, as textile waste can be used as a raw material without compromising in quality.Already the project has made proof of concept for a true closed loop system, with a process being able to tolerate 12% other fibers besides cellulose.
Increasing overall resource efficiency is accomplished . by increasing resource efficiency of raw materials and of the production process in the whole.
The consumption of water is significantly decreased in the production of InfinnaTM (50 litres per kg of fibre) compared to cotton (20.000 litres of water per kg of fibre. The water footprint of InfinnaTM is also lower compared to viscose as it consumes less than 25% of the water consumed by viscose fiber production.
The project will also reduce GHG emissions. For a European manufacturing plant running with bioenergy, Infinited Fiber’s CO2 emissions have been calculated to be up to 80% smaller than the one of cotton. Infinited Fiber’s technology has the lowest global warming potential, even when comparing to modern European viscose plants running with energy from biomass or municipal solid waste.
There are many other positive environmental aspects, such as minimization of land use by freeing potential cotton cultivation land for agricultural food production and avoiding the need for new land fill areas. These areas can then be used for e.g. reforestation.
The products to be launched are made of InfinnaTM from real post-consumer textile waste collected and sorted in Europe, blended with recycled or organic cotton. They do not contain any fossil-based synthetic fibers, which results in easier recyclability, biodegradability, and no plastic microfibers release. This project proves that InfinnaTM offers the textile sector a novel moderately priced and environmentally superior alternative to be considered in their future designs.
This project contributes significantly to the EU circular economy package (2018) defining that textiles must be collected separately in all Member States by 2025. This project goes further than collection and tackles what happens to the collected waste. The innovation of the New Cotton project is that it increases the performance of the whole value chain from collection and sorting to conversion and creates innovative new circular business models to make the recycling of textile waste cost-effective and thus economically feasible and attractive.
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