Bio-based local sustainable circular wear

Project Information

HEREWEAR

Grant agreement ID: 101000632

DOI

10.3030/101000632

Project closed

EC signature date 9 September 2020

Start date 1 October 2020

End date 31 October 2024

Funded under

• SOCIETAL CHALLENGES - Food security, sustainable agriculture and forestry, marine, maritime and inland water research, and the bioeconomy

Total cost

€ 7 009 290,45

EU contribution

€ 6 158 830,00

Coordinated by

CENTRE SCIENTIFIQUE ET TECHNIQUE DE L INDUSTRIE TEXTILE BELGE
Belgium

Periodic Reporting for period 3 - HEREWEAR (Bio-based local sustainable circular wear)

Reporting period: 2023-10-01 to 2024-10-31

Summary of the context and overall objectives of the project

Today, a large amount of clothing is produced in low cost countries, far away from the brands creating them, under poor labour conditions and with few concerns for the environmental impact. The vast majority of clothing is made of two materials: polyester and cotton. However, these have considerable disadvantages and shortcomings. Polyester is oil-based while cotton growth has a large environmental impact because of pesticides and high water consumption. Moreover, small fibre fractions are released from the garments, especially from polyester fibres, during washing and wearing. These microplastics end up and accumulate in soil and water, and thus contribute to the so-called 'plastic soup'. The textile sector is considered the second largest contributor of microplastics.
HEREWEAR aimed at the creation of an EU economy for locally-produced circular textiles and clothing made from bio-based resources via a holistic approach covering all necessary levels. On the technical side, emerging sustainable technologies for wet and melt spinning of cellulose and bio-based polyesters, for yarn and fabric production and for coating and colouring were developed and piloted. Further, we investigated how to reduce microfibre release via measures along the textile manufacturing process.
We focused on connecting regional micro factories and platform-supported, networked production resources. A HEREWEAR community was set-up and will be continued at project end with like-minded actors from along the value chain to build the necessary partnerships. Guidelines were provided to support SMEs, designers, brands etc in the transition to more sustainable clothing. Garment prototypes for streetwear and corporate clothing demonstrated our circular bio-based concept.

Work performed from the beginning of the project to the end of the period covered by the report and main results achieved so far

Below an overview per WP of the work performed in HEREWEAR:
'WP1 – Design for bio-based circular textiles' focused on how to design for bio-based local circular textiles. A bio-based sample collection was gathered, bio-TEN design guidelines produced and a series of analogue tools prepared to support design thinking and development. In addition, a software feature for empowering brands and designers in their sustainable transition was made.
'WP2 – Biorefinery' dealt with the biorefinery methods for the production of cellulose from lignocellulosic biomass and seaweeds. Biorefinery methods have been applied to the selected biowaste streams, with promising results when using wheat straw biomass. The biorefinery methods have been adjusted to meet the wet spinning specifications and were subsequently upscaled.
'WP3 – Wet & melt spinning' used cellulose from WP2 and available bio-polyesters to produce yarns. To tailor the properties of the yarns, these were further combined by hybrid yarn processing techniques. Biopolyester and cellulose filaments with good performance (strength, durability, processability, comfort etc) were successfully produced from lab to pilot scale.
'WP4 – Bio-based textile intermediates manufacturing' used the WP3 yarns to produce textile intermediates which were next functionalised via different technologies. Focus was given to the development of woven/knitted fabrics followed by the enzymatic treatment, bio-based printing, coating, dyeing, and finishing of HEREWEAR fabrics.
'WP5 – Demonstration bio-based garment production & validation' took up the results from previous WPs for the creation and validation of prototype garments. A range of garment prototypes was produced using HEREWEAR bio-based materials and applying our HEREWEAR design approaches. These garments have been fully assessed for their performance as well as circularity potential.
'WP6 – Environmental & social assessment' dealt with the life cycle sustainability assessment of the HEREWEAR materials showing the promising positive impact of using bio-based input material. Further, the influence of composition, construction and finishes on the release of microfibres was assessed.
In 'WP7 – Stakeholder community building' the HEREWEAR community has been built and engagement activities took place (e.g. webinars, workshops etc), leading to a motivated HEREWEAR stakeholder community.
'WP8 – Innovation management & Impact' ensured dissemination of HEREWEAR as well as business modelling, IP, exploitation plans and a policy brief. Finally, training material was developed and presented as the HEREWEAR Hub.

Summing up the project in numbers, some of the outcomes:
- We collected and made around 1000 samples, consisting of our material library, biowaste samples, filaments, fabrics, prototypes etc
- Over 70 garment prototypes for corporate fashion and streetwear were produced as small series demonstration
- 8 academic and conference papers
- 40+ resources (tools, guidelines, models) in the HEREWEAR Hub as a legacy for future developments
- A community of 250 members with an active core that will continue to explore and interact, of which 40 mentors to further support the transition.

Progress beyond the state of the art and expected potential impact (including the socio-economic impact and the wider societal implications of the project so far)

The HEREWEAR goals could only be realised thanks to significant progress beyond state-of-the-art. This started with design for circularity, focusing on the ability to repair/re-use/remanufacture and to recycle. Also minimisation of microfibre release was tackled by reviewing the full production chain. Cellulosic fibres were developed from alternative bio-based wastes and subsequent eco-friendly wet spinning techniques. Biopolyester fibres were produced via melt spinning of blended biopolyesters. In addition, innovations in bio-based textile intermediates were investigated, more specifically in (i) hybrid yarn production, (ii) enzymatic (pre-)treatment, (iii) bio-based printing & coating and (iv) bio-based dyeing & finishing. To efficiently produce these novel textiles, focus was given to digital manufacturing optimisation via both short run production in microfactories as well as networked manufacturing. We also introduced a circularity.id for information on EoL handling and for transparency towards consumers.
Overall, the project led to the creation of over 70 prototype garments, effectively demonstrating HEREWEAR's technical achievements and its supporting services for design and networked manufacturing. These garments showcased the HEREWEAR vision and are valuable promotional material to support the project towards exploitation and commercialization. Additionally, the HEREWEAR Community and Hub will play a key role in preserving and advancing the project's legacy.
Following the conclusion of HEREWEAR, advancing market adoption remains crucial, with efforts focused on supporting the commercialization and scaling of sustainable clothing solutions. Further innovation in materials to enhance performance, durability, and recyclability, can ensure that bio-based and circular textiles continue to evolve. Integrating sustainable practices within the textile supply chains, with a strong emphasis on local sourcing, will help establish resilient and responsible production networks. Beyond technical advancements, fostering consumer awareness and engagement will be vital to increase demand for sustainable textiles. Additionally, building strategic partnerships with industry stakeholders, policymakers, and research institutions can help to expand the reach of the project’s outcomes. Securing funding for follow-up initiatives and exploring new business models for circular textiles will also be key in sustaining progress beyond the project’s official end.

HEREWEAR prototype for streetwear

HEREWEAR prototype for corporate wear

The concept of the HEREWEAR project