Textile development.
We are developing bio-based functional textiles from renewable and recyclable materials. Multifilament fibers were successfully extruded via melt-spinning of lignin-cellulose blends with adequate elongation at break. The filaments were woven to fabrics with satisfactory surface uniformity, smooth texture and a slightly brownish shimmer.
PLA- and cellulose-based fabrics were produced by industrial partners in woven, knitted and nonwoven formats, with controlled variations in composition, grammage, density and mechanical properties. Selected samples with favorable mechanical and structural characteristics were prepared for lignin-based coating trials, including pre-treatment, washing and cutting to suit smaller-scale coating systems.
Films from compounds with varying lignin/cellulose/biopolymers ratios were developed for textile coating. European bio-based raw materials were evaluated for film-forming ability, grain size, melt behavior and flexibility. Film production was performed using a lab-scale extruder with a slot die, followed by heated calendaring to control thickness and surface homogeneity. Films were applied to textile substrates via thermal lamination, with heat and pressure facilitating layer bonding. Effective lamination was achieved, ensuring good adhesion while preserving the material’s 3D structure.
For water and oil repellency nature-inspired micro/nanostructures were embossed onto lignin-based coatings using laser-structured plates with micro- and nanostructured patterns under controlled temperature and pressure. Contact angle measurements showed enhanced hydrophobic and partially oleophobic performance.
Digital tools.
For the development of advanced digital tools to support circular value chains a central component is the development of DT architecture, providing a dynamic representation of production workflows. Operational parameters were defined following the DT framework, covering all phases from DT Purposing to Calibration and Validation. The methodology consisted of three phases: hierarchical decomposition of manufacturing processes to create standardized flow diagrams; impact-driven identification and multi-dimensional classification of parameters by process stage (spinning, weaving/knitting, finishing), material type (PLA, lignin, cellulose), and functional impact (material/process properties, settings, environmental data); multi-level expert validation for lab and industrial relevance. This approach identified over 80 operational parameters across three material-specific process flows, each documented with nominal values, tolerance and partly interdependency mapping. This validated dataset establishes the DT baseline, ensuring both scientific robustness and practical relevance for subsequent development phases. Combined with AI enhancements, it monitors and benchmarks key indicators, ensuring technical optimization aligns with sustainability goals.
Safety and sustainability assessment.
The partners has developed a life cycle-oriented strategy that integrates environmental, economic, social and health dimensions to assess the overall sustainability of each novel circular textile product. As part of this effort, a dedicated safety and sustainability assessment framework is being established to systematically guide evaluation from the early material and product design through validation and demonstration. The framework is based on core design principles, focusing on material efficiency, reduced hazards, energy, recyclability and life-cycle indicators.
Sustainability performance is systematically assessed across all relevant life cycle stages (material production, manufacturing, use, EoL recovery and biodegradation) from conceptual design to real-world application.
The framework adopts a hybrid approach based on SDGs, SSbD, and established LCA methods and is iteratively refined with partner and stakeholder input. The final conceptual model is structured around four interrelated sustainability pillars: safety, environmental, social, and economic. Each pillar is assessed using dedicated tools and metrics.
