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REthinking The Humanitarian Resale Ecosystem for Apparel Donations

Project description

Rethinking ultra-fast fashion’s impact on charity second-hand systems

The rise of ultra-fast fashion and resale sites is affecting the entire second-hand clothing industry. It also puts pressure on charities that depend on the flow of clothes not only to make an environmental difference but also to raise money. Supported by the Marie Skłodowska-Curie Actions programme, the RETHREAD project is exploring how the shift in the fashion and resale industry affects the revenue of charities, consumer habits, and the flows, quality and quantity of clothes donations. The project will help develop a map of the European system of second-hand apparel, conducting market analyses as well as surveys and interviews. The findings will be used to provide evidence-based recommendations to address textile waste and support second-hand markets..

Objective

The project RETHREAD (REthinking The Humanitarian Resale Ecosystem for Apparel Donations) examines how charities in the second-hand clothing sector are affected by ultra-fast fashion (UFF) and peer-to-peer (P2P) resale platforms. Second-hand sales have long delivered environmental benefits and vital funding for charities, but these activities are now threatened by the influx of low-quality garments, competition from P2P platforms, and new regulations banning the destruction of unsold inventory, which risk overwhelming charities with unsellable stock.

RETHREAD pursues three objectives: (1) map the European post-consumer apparel ecosystem, identifying actors, flows, and leverage points for intervention; (2) assess how P2P resale and UFF affect charity revenues and consumer behavior, including rebound effects; and (3) evaluate the operational consequences of unsold inventory donation mandates on charities, product quality, and competitive dynamics.

The project applies a multi-method approach, combining durable goods modeling with analysis of a unique dataset from the online resale platform of a major French charity. This is complemented by stakeholder interviews, consumer surveys, and European policy reports. Integrating operations management, behavioral economics, non-profit operations, and policy analysis, the research links empirical evidence with formal modeling and scenario analysis. Expected outputs include academic publications, decision-support tools for charities, and an innovative interactive policy brief.

By advancing knowledge on secondary markets and non-profit operations, RETHREAD directly supports Horizon Europe’s goals on sustainability, circular economy, and social inclusion, strengthening the resilience of charities as key social actors and providing regulators with evidence for socially responsible circular economy policies.

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HORIZON-TMA-MSCA-PF-EF - HORIZON TMA MSCA Postdoctoral Fellowships - European Fellowships

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(opens in new window) HORIZON-MSCA-2025-PF

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Coordinator

UNIVERSIDAD DE NAVARRA
Net EU contribution

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€ 194 074,56
Address
CAMPUS UNIVERSITARIO EDIFICIO CENTRAL
31080 Pamplona
Spain

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Region
Noreste Comunidad Foral de Navarra Navarra
Activity type
Higher or Secondary Education Establishments
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Total cost

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