The New Generation Needle by Needle Knitting Machine

Project Information

NbyN

Grant agreement ID: 190117316

DOI

10.3030/190117316

Project closed

EC signature date 27 September 2023

Start date 1 October 2023

End date 30 September 2025

Funded under

• The European Innovation Council (EIC)

Total cost

€ 2 192 500,00

EU contribution

€ 1 534 750,00

Coordinated by

HPCC SYSTEM SRL
Italy

Periodic Reporting for period 2 - NbyN (The New Generation Needle by Needle Knitting Machine)

Reporting period: 2024-10-01 to 2025-09-30

Summary of the context and overall objectives of the project

The global textile industry is undergoing a fundamental shift similar to the digital transformation that reshaped printing. Today’s circular knitting machines rely on fixed mechanical cams that guide needle movement along predetermined routes. This limits design flexibility, prevents rapid changeovers, and forces manufacturers to rely on large production batches to justify setup costs. As brands shift toward personalization, sustainability and faster delivery cycles, these limitations create inefficiencies, excess inventory and wasted materials.
The NbyN (Needle-by-Needle) project addresses this bottleneck by replacing hardware cams with digital actuation. Instead of moving all needles through a single mechanical profile, each needle is driven by its own miniature stepper motor. This allows independent movement in real time, enabling the machine to generate new patterns, textures and structural changes on demand. With the NbyN system, manufacturers can produce multiple product types in a single run—without mechanical reconfiguration—dramatically reducing idle time, tooling, and material waste.
The overarching objective of the project was to take this disruptive approach from laboratory concept to an industrial-grade prototype ready for commercial deployment. The work focused on circular hosiery knitting, a demanding segment where quality, repeatability and production speed are critical. The prototype developed under the project is capable of operating at industrial rates with 156 individually controlled actuators, producing socks and technical knit structures that cannot be achieved with conventional machinery.
By transforming mechanical knitting into a programmable digital process, NbyN enables manufacturers to transition from mass production to mass customization. This supports EU industrial priorities: localized production, supply chain resilience, reduced waste, and competitive advantage for European SMEs. The technology establishes a pathway to impact through commercial machine sales, later expansion to licensing, and adaptation to other machine types, such as flat knitting.

Work performed from the beginning of the project to the end of the period covered by the report and main results achieved so far

The project delivered a fully operational prototype of the NbyN circular knitting machine. The complete mechanical structure was designed for manufacturability, integrating all core components including cylinders, levers, plates, and yarn systems. The electronics was developed specifically for continuous rotation, incorporating custom PCB boards, a rotary collector for power and communication, and a distributed firmware architecture capable of controlling all actuators simultaneously.
Following full assembly, the control software was engineered to synchronize needle elevation, yarn tension, and motor activity in real time. Because no existing industrial model existed for a 150+-actuator rotating head, the team developed new communication protocols, real-time error compensation, and safety mechanisms. The system reaches stable operation, delivering continuous textile output while maintaining accuracy and consistency.
The NbyN prototype was validated through live demonstrations and pilot testing in a real operational environment. The machine produced wearable socks and technical knit structures, including elastic zones, terry formations and complex jacquard geometries. These results confirmed that the technology is not only functional but production-ready. Early adopters from multiple textile markets provided feedback during piloting sessions, which led to improvements in user interface, pattern generation workflow, and operator ergonomics.
The project also established the groundwork for commercialization: business plans were refined, distributor partnerships formed, and purchase commitments for initial production units were received. Together, these achievements confirm that the machine has reached TRL8 and is ready for market launch.

Progress beyond the state of the art and expected potential impact (including the socio-economic impact and the wider societal implications of the project so far)

The NbyN machine represents a major technological leap in textile manufacturing.
Individual needle control: Traditional machines move all needles along a fixed mechanical geometry; the NbyN system moves each one independently. This digital actuation enables patterns, textures and structural changes that mechanical cams cannot physically reproduce. Manufacturers can alter stitch density, rib structures or elastic regions in real time, unlocking new creative and functional product classes.
Production performance: Despite its flexibility, the prototype maintains industrial throughput. It achieves stable rotation speeds while executing up to ten needle elevation events per revolution. During piloting, the machine demonstrated reliable operation with consistent fabric quality across long runs. Because adjustments are software-driven, changeovers take minutes rather than hours or days.
Sustainability and material efficiency: Digital control reduces yarn waste by eliminating trial-and-error setup, minimizing startup scrap and enabling precise selective knitting. Instead of creating full rolls to test a pattern, operators can directly manufacture the final product. Reduced mechanical friction also contributes to lower energy usage and longer component lifespan. Together, these attributes support the EU Circular Economy objectives by enabling on-demand production and minimizing overproduction.
Innovation in fabric capability: NbyN expands the design space of knitting: from integrating elastic support zones into sports socks, to hybrid functional areas, to complex decorative motifs without retooling. This supports customization, niche production runs and performance-specific textile products. As the technology matures, it can be adapted to larger cylinder formats or flat knitting systems, scaling well beyond hosiery.
Economic impact: Digital knitting lowers entry barriers for small manufacturers and increases local competitiveness. The model reduces dependence on overseas mass-production, shortens supply chains, and allows EU manufacturers to respond to market demand rapidly. Early commercial interest, including pre-orders from distribution partners, indicates strong adoption potential.

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