Understanding the light-fastness of heritage Turkey Red textiles through modern dye chemistry and historical dyeing technology to inform sustainable display and access

Project Information

LightFasTR

Grant agreement ID: 708740

DOI

10.3030/708740

Project closed

EC signature date 18 February 2016

Start date 20 March 2017

End date 19 March 2019

Funded under

• EXCELLENT SCIENCE - Marie Skłodowska-Curie Actions

Total cost

€ 183 454,80

EU contribution

€ 183 454,80

Coordinated by

UNIVERSITY OF GLASGOW
United Kingdom

Periodic Reporting for period 1 - LightFasTR (Understanding the light-fastness of heritage Turkey Red textiles through modern dye chemistry and historical dyeing technology to inform sustainable display and access)

Reporting period: 2017-03-20 to 2019-03-19

Summary of the context and overall objectives of the project

Problem/issue addressed
LightFasTR is a novel interdisciplinary project combining historical and scientific research to investigate the impact of materials and methods on color quality and light-stability of historical Turkey red (TR) textiles for sustainable heritage management. The focuses is TR cotton made in Scotland and techniques of production between 1840 and 1910. LightFasTR drew upon the Fellow’s expertise in dye chemistry and extensive research knowledge of industrial dyeing combined with the host’s expertise in textile conservation and historical dye analysis. The project took an innovative approach to heritage TR preservation by combining historical research of different 19th c. materials and methods with state-of-the-art chemical studies of the colorants in historical and reconstructed textiles. LightFasTR sought to answer: to what extent do differences in materials and methods impact on TR color quality and light-stability? Why were certain materials and process steps important? What are characteristic markers and degradation products in naturally or synthetically dyed TR? Should current light-levels in museums and archives be modified for TR?

Importance for society
Understanding the historical sources and uses of dyes is essential to value and preserve the world’s rich textile heritage. Turkey red, Europe’s most profitable globalized textile of the 19th c. Industrial Revolution, was famed for colorful bold patterns on a characteristic bright red background. Many 19th c. TR printed cottons survive inside pattern books as well-preserved, vibrant and creative storyboards of forgotten global trade and cultural connections. Museums and archives want to exhibit these collections and increase access, but need to preserve the colors. The 19th c. TR makers’ claim of excellent light-fastness is unproven, raising uncertainty about suitable light levels and exposure times for historical TR textile collections. LightFasTR unites the materials and processes of making 19th c. TR with modern dye chemistry and heritage textile conservation science to give museums and archives insight into the true light stability of TR textiles.

Overall objectives
• Recreate Turkey red cotton based on historical production techniques to analyse the impact of material and methods on color quality.
• Investigate the light-fastness of historical Turkey red cotton through systematic photochemical and analytical studies of the recreated samples using accelerated aging for predictive modeling of color changes and identifying light-aging chemical markers.
• Analyze selected historical Turkey red textiles to identify chemical markers for dyeing material used and photodegradation products.

Work performed from the beginning of the project to the end of the period covered by the report and main results achieved so far

LightFasTR began on 20th March 2017 at the Centre of Textile Conservation and Technical Art History (CTCTAH), University of Glasgow. The researcher Mohammad Shahid was involved in a host of different activities during the fellowship:
• Participation in the academic programme of the CTCTAH; teaching and organising research seminars for 2017-18.
• Museum/Archive/Library Visits: University of Glasgow Archives; West Dunbartonshire Libraries, Glasgow; National Museums Scotland, Edinburgh; Brotherton Library, University of Leeds; Bradford College Textile Archive, Bradford College; National Art Library, London, The Victoria and Albert Museum, London; The National Archives, London; British Library, London
• Public outreach events and events to non-academic audiences: Turkey red dyeing and printing workshop, Dumbarton Library, 2 March 2019; Participation in CTCTAH Open days; social media (Twitter, Facebook, Researchgate), and the project website.
• Dissemination of activities and result to academic audiences: Pasold 'Colour in Cloth' Conference, Edinburgh, 10-11 April 2017; Dyes in History and Archaeology 36, Royal School of Needlework, Hampton Court Palace, London 26-28 October, 2017; Chemical Reconstruction Workshop, National Museums Scotland, Edinburgh 13, December 2017; ArtsLab/Archives & Special Collections event, University of Glasgow Library, 17 January, 2018; Royal Society of Chemistry Historical group meeting, Burlington House, London, 17 October 2018; End of LightFasTR project presentation, History of Art, University of Glasgow, 18 March 2019 and CTCTAH, University of Glasgow, 20 March 2019.
• Workshops organised: Materialising color - historical dye research with archive and museum collections, National Library of Scotland, Edinburgh, 11 April 2017; Turkey red dyeing and printing workshop, Dumbarton Library, 2 March 2019.
• Professional training at University of Glasgow: Research Integrity; Equality and Diversity Essentials; Managing Your Research Data; Introduction to DMPonline; Impact Statements in Grant Applications; Instrumental training on Ultra-High Performance Liquid Chromatography, Q-Sun Light ageing, Photoluminescence quantum yield system, Luzhchem Photoreactor
• Report: bibliography of historical Turkey red dyeing literature, with brief content comments and full text links (open access through the University Repository).
Disseminated through peer-reviewed articles:
• M. Shahid, I. Degano, M. Aceto, J. Wertz, M.I Khan, A. Quye, Analytical methods for determination of anthraquinone dyes in historical textiles: A review (Manuscript under revision)
• M. Shahid, J.H. Wertz, A. Quye, Assessing the influence of materials and methods on color quality of Turkey red through historical reconstruction (Manuscript under review)
• M. Shahid, J. H Wertz, G. Bucher, A. Quye, Understanding light stability of historical Turkey red through chemical reconstruction, accelerated light ageing and UHPLC (Manuscript in preparation)

Progress beyond the state of the art and expected potential impact (including the socio-economic impact and the wider societal implications of the project so far)

The color quality and fastness of shades of cotton by different Turkey red processes compared to common madder/alizarin dyeing was intensely debated by stakeholders in the 19th century dyeing trade. Makers judged TR light-fastness subjectively until 1893, when scientific tests by the famous British dye chemist, W.H. Perkins, concluded TR as very light-fast, perhaps biased by his British Alizarin Company supplying the huge Scottish United Turkey Red Company. With no conclusive reports of different material and method effects on the color quality and fading of TR, LightFasTR sought answers through recreations, photochemical studies and chemical analysis of historical textiles. From knowledge and expertise applied and developed through LightFastTR, chemical markers relating past TR production methods to the light-stability of finished products were identified by comparing reconstructed and historical textiles. LightFasTR is the first systematic study of material and method impact on the color quality of Turkey red. Colour hues of recreated TR depended on choices of mordant, oil and dye and varied with pre-treatments and dyeing methods. This gives insight into the effects of different dyeing materials and processes in 19th century Turkey red production and the practical choices made by dyers in this period. Visually, historical TR samples look in very good conditions, however, phthalic acid detected in some madder-dyed historical samples signals photodegradation. Although the photostability of TR was better than common madder/alizarin dyeing, improvements were not as great as historical makers claimed. For conservation of TR textiles in archives and museums, the same protection from light as common madder- and alizarin-dyed textiles is essential.

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