Periodic Reporting for period 2 - REFREAM (Re-Thinking of Fashion in Research and Artist collaborating development for Urban Manufacturing)
Reporting period: 2020-06-01 to 2021-11-30
Re-FREAM supported art-driven innovation in European R&I projects by inclusion of artists in research consortia via linked third-parties with strong support from art-related partners like the Art University of Linz (UFG) and the European Institute of Design (IED). STARTS lighthouse pilot for “art-inspired urban manufacturing” engaged industry, technology, end-users and artists in a broad artistic exploration of technologies with the aim of creating novel products, processes and services that respond better to human needs. In a co-creation process of arts and technology, digitalized manufacturing of fashion was developed up to TRL 5 to enable small-scale production of fashion in urban environment.
The digital technologies that are transforming the fashion industry exemplified the changes impacting businesses and industries. The mega trends in technology directly affect the creation, production, distribution/sale, and presentation of fashion to consumers; technology is finally set to disrupt fashion at every stage of the product lifecycle. Besides technology, the “new aesthetic”, sustainability and inclusiveness will influence the fashion of the future.
Over three years, artists, designers, scientists and industry experts entered into the Re-FREAM co-creation processes. Together, they conceived trailblazing solutions for pressing social and environmental needs. Their exchange generated far more than prototypes and products: they are key to defining new narratives.By identifying shared processes and common values, across disciplines and borders, they seeded future practices that could be applied, not only to urban manufacturing, but to many other domains as well. Re-FREAM explored urban manufacturing through the categories of 2D to 3D ), sustainable finishings, electronics and textiles, all integrating the overarching questions of sustainability and customization. . The practices and processes they generated contribute to finding new forms of sustainability and community engagement, new and inclusive ways of creating meaningful impact, and new ecosystems. Materials and their manipulation are never neutral: making is the transmission, production and embodiment of knowledge.
The digital technologies that are transforming the fashion industry exemplified the changes impacting businesses and industries. The mega trends in technology directly affect the creation, production, distribution/sale, and presentation of fashion to consumers; technology is finally set to disrupt fashion at every stage of the product lifecycle. Besides technology, the “new aesthetic”, sustainability and inclusiveness will influence the fashion of the future.
Over three years, artists, designers, scientists and industry experts entered into the Re-FREAM co-creation processes. Together, they conceived trailblazing solutions for pressing social and environmental needs. Their exchange generated far more than prototypes and products: they are key to defining new narratives.By identifying shared processes and common values, across disciplines and borders, they seeded future practices that could be applied, not only to urban manufacturing, but to many other domains as well. Re-FREAM explored urban manufacturing through the categories of 2D to 3D ), sustainable finishings, electronics and textiles, all integrating the overarching questions of sustainability and customization. . The practices and processes they generated contribute to finding new forms of sustainability and community engagement, new and inclusive ways of creating meaningful impact, and new ecosystems. Materials and their manipulation are never neutral: making is the transmission, production and embodiment of knowledge.
KEY OUPUTS
-UNO Machine: The patented UNO nebulization machine will allow CAR to give another service to third parties and open a new business category which is running small series of sustainable garments and finishes on demand and ad Hoc to artists, small fashion companies, Universities and Institutes that don't have the possibility to develop their own garments.
-20 Re-FREAM Demonstrators and artefacts
-3D printing on textiles: processes and know-how for directly printing on textiles using Polyjet and other AM techniques (dispensing, FFF printing, etc.): Influences on adhesion, ink soaking effects and machinery adaptation concepts. Besides general process know-how this resulted in patent filing by STR for new printer concepts
-3D scanning app for mobile devices.
-Textile Prototyping Lab (TPL): The TPL is the first open laboratory for the development of high-tech textiles in Germany and an open innovation research platform for promoting innovation and networking between research, design and industry run by IZM and Weissensee
-Nanocork development with Ecofinish has supposed an advancement beyond the state of the art that has achieved commercial TRL.
“Manifesto for future fashion” shares with future designers and artists and the fashion industry in transformation the Re-FREAM experiences and learnings, how future fashion has to be produced, processed as well as perceived to become sustainable and inclusive.
- Art/Tech Collaboration Platform: a digital tool for peer-to-peer collaboration teams that makes the contents of Art/Tech Collaboration Manual and lessons learned therein useable to anyone, and allowing them to adapt the methodology to the specific conditions of their project / process at any time.
-RECODE FASHION Platform a tool to design, connect, and discover fashion innovation projects IED will offer the platform as a tool for its students in Spain and Italy
- -Textile hardware kit (IZM): The e-textile hardware kit consists of electronic modules with different functions such as C, ADC, IMU, temperature / touch sensors as well as LEDs. They are compatible with Arduino open-source hardware and software products and are especially designed for integration onto textiles by offering different interconnection options contact pads, bond pads).Transfer of the project results to industrial projects and further R&D projects
-UNO Machine: The patented UNO nebulization machine will allow CAR to give another service to third parties and open a new business category which is running small series of sustainable garments and finishes on demand and ad Hoc to artists, small fashion companies, Universities and Institutes that don't have the possibility to develop their own garments.
-20 Re-FREAM Demonstrators and artefacts
-3D printing on textiles: processes and know-how for directly printing on textiles using Polyjet and other AM techniques (dispensing, FFF printing, etc.): Influences on adhesion, ink soaking effects and machinery adaptation concepts. Besides general process know-how this resulted in patent filing by STR for new printer concepts
-3D scanning app for mobile devices.
-Textile Prototyping Lab (TPL): The TPL is the first open laboratory for the development of high-tech textiles in Germany and an open innovation research platform for promoting innovation and networking between research, design and industry run by IZM and Weissensee
-Nanocork development with Ecofinish has supposed an advancement beyond the state of the art that has achieved commercial TRL.
“Manifesto for future fashion” shares with future designers and artists and the fashion industry in transformation the Re-FREAM experiences and learnings, how future fashion has to be produced, processed as well as perceived to become sustainable and inclusive.
- Art/Tech Collaboration Platform: a digital tool for peer-to-peer collaboration teams that makes the contents of Art/Tech Collaboration Manual and lessons learned therein useable to anyone, and allowing them to adapt the methodology to the specific conditions of their project / process at any time.
-RECODE FASHION Platform a tool to design, connect, and discover fashion innovation projects IED will offer the platform as a tool for its students in Spain and Italy
- -Textile hardware kit (IZM): The e-textile hardware kit consists of electronic modules with different functions such as C, ADC, IMU, temperature / touch sensors as well as LEDs. They are compatible with Arduino open-source hardware and software products and are especially designed for integration onto textiles by offering different interconnection options contact pads, bond pads).Transfer of the project results to industrial projects and further R&D projects
Art/Tech Collaboration Platform: (https://art-tech-cocreation.eu/) giving future designers access to concepts of art/tech collaborations
3D printing directly on textiles was a huge topic of Hub “Additive Manufacturing”. Stratasys developed solutions to enable 3d printing directly on textiles 3D Fashion will enter further programmes or manufacturing concepts
Electronics and Textile A modular building block for sensing, actuation, control, communication and energy supply, ready for use on smart textiles was developed and tested by the artists processed the first industrial orders based on the new TexPCB technology
The first new technology solution have already been developed together with the artists (e.g. nebulization with less water with cork material, sustainable material development for cloths) A new nebulizing pilot machine suitable for treatment of very short series of garments is developed. In period 2 a Roadmap of laser-marking of fashion textile and non-textile materials and short series for fashion purposes nebulized and laser-marked was developed.
Open Innovation Platform share all activities of the co-creation projects and to engage with an external community of designers, artist, researchers, and cross industry professionals.
Re-fream leaves important impacts on different levels, both on the material and in terms of social or local interactions by setting up new values in terms of material in relation with the environment.Applied processes do not only implement the concept of circularity, but sensitize society to growth processes or site-specific productions Arists shifted norms regarding concepts of health and beauty. A piece of clothing no longer only serves to communicate or find identity in the outside world, but becomes an empowering and revitalizing experience of the self.The Planetary design guide developed by IZM will provide future designers with eco-design methods
Re-FREAM was a learning journey between 12 Consortium partners and 20 (teams) of artists. We endeavored and outreached to new technologies to improve fashion of tomorrow with microelectronics, new processes, new materials, 3D technologies, laser technologies for better, more sustainable, inclusive and urban manufactured fashion of tomorrow. Besides these new processes, materials and technologies we discovered core values like shared cultures, values and processes, which we believe are key for the twin transition of the fashion industry. We developed the Manifesto booklet n, which we will communicate after project´s end to external community of fashion designers, universities and fashion industry to shout out loud that fashion needs a change and how we propose to change.
3D printing directly on textiles was a huge topic of Hub “Additive Manufacturing”. Stratasys developed solutions to enable 3d printing directly on textiles 3D Fashion will enter further programmes or manufacturing concepts
Electronics and Textile A modular building block for sensing, actuation, control, communication and energy supply, ready for use on smart textiles was developed and tested by the artists processed the first industrial orders based on the new TexPCB technology
The first new technology solution have already been developed together with the artists (e.g. nebulization with less water with cork material, sustainable material development for cloths) A new nebulizing pilot machine suitable for treatment of very short series of garments is developed. In period 2 a Roadmap of laser-marking of fashion textile and non-textile materials and short series for fashion purposes nebulized and laser-marked was developed.
Open Innovation Platform share all activities of the co-creation projects and to engage with an external community of designers, artist, researchers, and cross industry professionals.
Re-fream leaves important impacts on different levels, both on the material and in terms of social or local interactions by setting up new values in terms of material in relation with the environment.Applied processes do not only implement the concept of circularity, but sensitize society to growth processes or site-specific productions Arists shifted norms regarding concepts of health and beauty. A piece of clothing no longer only serves to communicate or find identity in the outside world, but becomes an empowering and revitalizing experience of the self.The Planetary design guide developed by IZM will provide future designers with eco-design methods
Re-FREAM was a learning journey between 12 Consortium partners and 20 (teams) of artists. We endeavored and outreached to new technologies to improve fashion of tomorrow with microelectronics, new processes, new materials, 3D technologies, laser technologies for better, more sustainable, inclusive and urban manufactured fashion of tomorrow. Besides these new processes, materials and technologies we discovered core values like shared cultures, values and processes, which we believe are key for the twin transition of the fashion industry. We developed the Manifesto booklet n, which we will communicate after project´s end to external community of fashion designers, universities and fashion industry to shout out loud that fashion needs a change and how we propose to change.