Descripción del proyecto
Un estudio más detallado de la moda francesa del siglo XVIII
El siglo XVIII no fue solo el Siglo de las Luces, sino que además fue un período en el que aumentó el gusto por la moda. El mercado de la moda experimentó un gran auge, transformando permanentemente las prácticas de producción y consumo. Entre los productos sujetos a los caprichos de la moda, destacan los peinados femeninos por su constante renovación, que mantenía el gusto por la novedad de un público cada vez más variado. El proyecto AXIONOVI, financiado con fondos europeos, investigará las estrategias innovadoras implicadas en la comercialización de peinados de moda, la práctica del cliente y el papel de los organismos gubernamentales. Los hallazgos se mostrarán en una recreación de peinados históricos en un museo de la moda. Esta metodología de investigación práctica, documentada en un blog, proporcionará información sobre cómo se elaboraban esos peinados.
Objetivo
This research investigates innovatory practices and the importance of novelty in eighteenth-century France by considering the specific case of fashion in women’s coiffures. At the crossroads of cultural and material history, it will examine how the search for novelty governed the coiffures trade and how these practices contributed to shape the concept of novelty, at a crucial moment when it became a core attribute of modernity. By focussing on the innovatory strategies of the different actors involved in the creation and the commercialisation of fashionable coiffures, the research will attempt for the first time to map a field, which is still uncharted despite its importance during the Ancien Régime. Drawing on a wide range of primary sources, from merchants’ account books to fashion plates and advertisements, and combining different historiographical approaches, this project will shed light on the relations between merchants in different trades, fashion journal editors, customers and government agencies. The investigation will also address the importance of novelty in global trade and foreign imaginaries, by analysing the relationship between economic and symbolic conceptions of value. This undertaking will reassess the role of fashion in the culture and economy of eighteenth-century France: through new archival research it aims to re-connect fashion with the wider philosophical and economic reflexion on the notion of novelty in the Ancien Régime The project also includes a practical component through the recreation of historical coiffures in a fashion museum. This hands-on research methodology, documented in a blog, will not only offer a better understanding of how these hairstyles were made, but it will also reflect on the utility of re-creation both in historical research and in museum exhibitions. Thus, this investigation will propose an embodied critical reflexion on the value of novelty, a timely attempt to address an issue in urgent need of historicization.
Ámbito científico
Palabras clave
Programa(s)
Régimen de financiación
MSCA-IF - Marie Skłodowska-Curie Individual Fellowships (IF)Coordinador
50014 Fiesole
Italia