Objectif
To get a wide knowledge about the creasing behaviour of light weight wool products on the market 56 samples were collected from different industrial sources and the relaxation behaviour was studied after creasing them at 35°C and 85% r.h. and evaluating the relaxation under standard atmosphere of 20°C and 65% r.h. directly, after 30 min., 60 min. and 24 hours relaxation time.
On the base of the relaxation values 30 fabrics were selected and ranked in groups of 10 into sections with "high", "medium" and "low" relaxation values and the physico-chemical properties, construction varieties and the Kawabata-hand values were studied.
The rating after 24 hours is chosen in the tables and diagrams because there are no significant differences in the relaxation values compared to the shorter relaxation times and surely a consumer pays more attention to a sufficient relaxation of a garment over night with the possibility to use his garment one additional day without ironing it.
The classification for the warp direction is chosen because this is the main direction stressed and creased in the hollow of the knee of trousers.
From the selected 30 fabrics various physical and chemical data were determined and multiple linear regression analysis were performed to find the influences of the various design details. Very important influences of fiber-fineness, yarn-torsion etc. were found.
Based on these results fibers and tops as well as yarns and fabrics were specified to start the production of new self-designed fabrics with optimized crease properties expected.
An image analysis method to measure the shape of the creased fabrics was tested for its suitability and performance but has not yet reached sufficient reliability, nevertheless there are good chances for further development.
Parallel to this investigation finishing, respectively crosslinking, respectively stabilisating reagents were tested intended to improve the creasing behaviour of the fabrics.
The finishing agents extracted from the samples were determined based on the analysis of the extracts by infrared spectroscopy.
There were found no formaldehyde-based resins. The compounds extracted from the samples cannot be considered specific for light-weight wool or wool/silk fabrics, with particular reference to the anti-creasing properties. The same compounds are currently used in textile companies for finishing a broad range of fabrics, to import on them softer handle, antistatic, soil repellency.
78 self-designed and produced fabrics were uniformly and carefully finished for easily comparing the different fabric designs and to avoid influences from the finishing process on the mechanical properties of the fabric, especially on the crease behaviour. The self-designed fabrics showed a good correspondence with the results of the regression analyses in the first part, excellent crease-resist or crease relaxation properties and some interesting trends of correlations. The results of the regression analyses regarding the mechanical design of the fabrics and the crease behaviour in the first part of the project became endorsed.
Several design measures contribute to improve crease resist and crease relaxation.
The investigation of finishing, respectively crosslinking, respectively stabilizating reagents intended to improve the creasing behaviour of fabrics was not finished satisfactorily although a large number of different aldehydes was tested. Special grafting polymers for silk were tested to improve the crease behaviour of wool with poor success.
A lot of fabric design details to improve the crease properties of fabrics are now available for topmakers, spinners, weavers and the garment industry.
A direct transformation of the project results into the production of the industrial partners concerned in the project and furthermore later to the whole yarn and fabric producing industry is guaranteed.
The industrial partners, each in his own product field either spinner or weaver will apply the results getting benefit in a direct way from the research, by reducing the number of complaints about creasing and valorising the better crease-resist properties of their products through sales promotion and will become able to protect itself against unreasonable demands of the fabric processing industry.
The good looking of garments is strongly influenced by the creasing behaviour of the fabric and influences also the well-being of the wearer. A strong creasing tendency and lacking crease recovery are the most frequent complaints of consumers about fabrics of fine wool or wool/silk blends. Especially prone to creasing are such parts of the garment which are exposed to extreme bending stresses during wearing as for example in the hollow of the knee in trousers, in the arm bend of jackets or in the back parts of jackets. Light weight fabrics of fine wool and wool/silk blends which are mainly offered in summer collections should not tend to crease, but there are fabrics available on the market which differ in a far range in their creasing behaviour. Although sometimes garments with a low tendency to crease are found there are others with a high creasing tendency. Until today it has not been studied, how the fabric construction and the fabric finishing influence the creasing, although there are hints that some construction characteristics may influence the creasing. A comprehensive investigation on the creasing behaviour of fabric does not exist. It would be of great advantage for the textile industry in Europe to produce light weight fabrics with high grade crease-resist properties which could be produced in a reliable way. Complaints of consumers and costs for compensations will be strongly reduced. The special know how will help the industry to maintain working places which demand for well skilled co-workers. On the base of a wide knowledge on wool and wool/silk blends and on their physico-chemical properties, the influences of construction characteristics on the creasing properties will be investigated. Not only fabric construction parameters will be investigated, but also new chemical treatments to reduce the creasing of wool, like the modification of the protein by new types of cross-liking agents and surface treatments of the fibre by polymers.
Champ scientifique (EuroSciVoc)
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CORDIS classe les projets avec EuroSciVoc, une taxonomie multilingue des domaines scientifiques, grâce à un processus semi-automatique basé sur des techniques TLN. Voir: Le vocabulaire scientifique européen.
- ingénierie et technologie ingénierie des materiaux fibres
- sciences naturelles sciences chimiques chimie organique aldéhyde
- sciences naturelles sciences chimiques science des polymères
- ingénierie et technologie ingénierie des materiaux textiles
- sciences naturelles sciences physiques optique spectroscopie spectrométrie d’absorption
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Coordinateur
41066 Mönchengladbach
Allemagne
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