Objective The objective of the present study is to investigate the physical processes which take place in the surf zone on a coast with and without coastal structures. The study shall lead to a significantly improved description of the cross-shore and longshore sediment transport, which mainly occurs within the surf zone. The study will comprise two tasks: I. Surf and swash zone hydrodynamics and sediment transport, and II. Morphological modelling. I. The surf and swash zone hydrodynamics and sediment transport is the process-oriented part of the study, and will concentrate on the behaviour of breaking and broken waves (mainly 2D-horizontally), their generation of small and large scale turbulence, and the resulting sediment transport. Breaking and broken waves in the surf and swash zone: This topic will deal with waves just before they break, the processes of wave breaking, the further propagation as a broken wave to the limits of run-up in the swash zone. The role of wave reflection will be included. The study will deal with plane beaches and beaches with bars, where a pause in the breaking will occur. The sediment transport in the surf zone - especially that due to long waves - will be studied. Vertical and horizontal structure of wave-induced motion: This topic will deal with the structure of vortices and turbulence formed by breaking waves. Special attention will be given to the wave-boundary layer in the surf zone, the 3D-undertow, the behaviour of vortices formed by wave breaking, shear waves formed in the longshore current, and the behaviour of rip currents. II. Morphological modelling is the integration-oriented part of the study. This task will apply the improved understanding of the fundamental physical processes to improve the morphodynamic description of the surf and swash zone. The morphological modelling will concentrate on the behaviour of the seabed in the surf and swash zone in a real environment, i.e. 3-D irregular waves plus a current. Also the morphology is assumed to be 3-D. The study includes holes in the bars, longshore rhythmic beach features like oblique ridges and beach cusps and the morphological far field impact of coastal structures. Sediment transport. Fields of science natural sciencesearth and related environmental sciencesgeologysedimentology Programme(s) FP4-MAST 3 - Specific programme of research and technological development in the field of marine science and technology, 1994-1998 Topic(s) 020101 - Coastal processes and morphodynamics Call for proposal Data not available Funding Scheme CSC - Cost-sharing contracts Coordinator Dansk Hydraulisk Institut EU contribution No data Address 5,Agern Allé 2970 Hørsholm Denmark See on map Total cost No data Participants (12) Sort alphabetically Sort by EU Contribution Expand all Collapse all HR WALLINGFORD LTD United Kingdom EU contribution No data Address Howbery Park OX10 8BA WALLINGFORD See on map Total cost No data STICHTING WATERLOOPKUNDIG LABORATORIUM (WL/DELFT HYDRAULICS) Netherlands EU contribution No data Address 185,Rotterdamseweg 185 2600 MH DELFT See on map Total cost No data TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY OF DENMARK Denmark EU contribution No data Address ISVA, Bygningstorvet, Building 115 2800 LYNGBY See on map Total cost No data TECHNISCHE UNIVERSITAET BRAUNSCHWEIG Germany EU contribution No data Address 51A,Beethovenstrasse 51A 38106 BRAUNSCHWEIG See on map Total cost No data Technische Universiteit Delft Netherlands EU contribution No data Address 1,Stevinweg 1 2628 BL DELFT See on map Total cost No data UNIVERSITAT POLITECNICA DE CATALUNYA Spain EU contribution No data Address 1-3,Calle Jordi Girona Salgado 1-3 Campus Nord - Modùl 08034 BARCELONA See on map Total cost No data UNIVERSITY OF BRISTOL United Kingdom EU contribution No data Address University Walk BS8 1TW BRISTOL, CLIFTON See on map Total cost No data UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH United Kingdom EU contribution No data Address Mayfield Road Kings Buildings EH9 3JZ EDINBURGH See on map Total cost No data UNIVERSITY OF FLORENCE Italy EU contribution No data Address Via Santa Marta 3 50139 FIRENZE See on map Total cost No data Universidad de Cantabria Spain EU contribution No data Address S/N,Avenida de los Castros 39005 Santander See on map Total cost No data University of Plymouth United Kingdom EU contribution No data Address Palace Court PL1 2DE Plymouth See on map Total cost No data Électricité de France (EDF) France EU contribution No data Address 6 Quai Watier 78401 Chatou See on map Total cost No data
