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Surf and Swash Zone Mechanics

Objective



The objective of the present study is to investigate the physical processes which take place in the surf zone on a coast with and without coastal structures.
The study shall lead to a significantly improved description of the cross-shore and longshore sediment transport, which mainly occurs within the surf zone.
The study will comprise two tasks: I. Surf and swash zone hydrodynamics and sediment transport, and II. Morphological modelling.
I. The surf and swash zone hydrodynamics and sediment transport is the process-oriented part of the study, and will concentrate on the behaviour of breaking and broken waves (mainly 2D-horizontally), their generation of small and large scale turbulence, and the resulting sediment transport. Breaking and broken waves in the surf and swash zone: This topic will deal with waves just before they break, the processes of wave breaking, the further propagation as a broken wave to the limits of run-up in the swash zone. The role of wave reflection will be included. The study will deal with plane beaches and beaches with bars, where a pause in the breaking will occur. The sediment transport in the surf zone - especially that due to long waves - will be studied.
Vertical and horizontal structure of wave-induced motion: This topic will deal with the structure of vortices and turbulence formed by breaking waves. Special attention will be given to the wave-boundary layer in the surf zone, the 3D-undertow, the behaviour of vortices formed by wave breaking, shear waves formed in the longshore current, and the behaviour of rip currents.
II. Morphological modelling is the integration-oriented part of the study. This task will apply the improved understanding of the fundamental physical processes to improve the morphodynamic description of the surf and swash zone. The morphological modelling will concentrate on the behaviour of the seabed in the surf and swash zone in a real environment, i.e. 3-D irregular waves plus a current. Also the morphology is assumed to be 3-D. The study includes holes in the bars, longshore rhythmic beach features like oblique ridges and beach cusps and the morphological far field impact of coastal structures.
Sediment transport.

Funding Scheme

CSC - Cost-sharing contracts

Coordinator

Dansk Hydraulisk Institut
Address
5,Agern Allé
2970 Hørsholm
Denmark

Participants (12)

HR WALLINGFORD LTD
United Kingdom
Address
Howbery Park
OX10 8BA Wallingford
STICHTING WATERLOOPKUNDIG LABORATORIUM (WL/DELFT HYDRAULICS)
Netherlands
Address
185,Rotterdamseweg 185
2600 MH Delft
TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY OF DENMARK
Denmark
Address
Isva, Bygningstorvet, Building 115
2800 Lyngby
TECHNISCHE UNIVERSITAET BRAUNSCHWEIG
Germany
Address
51A,beethovenstrasse 51A
38106 Braunschweig
Technische Universiteit Delft
Netherlands
Address
1,Stevinweg 1
2628 BL Delft
UNIVERSITAT POLITECNICA DE CATALUNYA
Spain
Address
1-3,Calle Jordi Girona Salgado 1-3 Campus Nord - Modùl
08034 Barcelona
UNIVERSITY OF BRISTOL
United Kingdom
Address
University Walk
BS8 1TW Bristol, Clifton
UNIVERSITY OF EDINBURGH
United Kingdom
Address
Mayfield Road Kings Buildings
EH9 3JZ Edinburgh
UNIVERSITY OF FLORENCE
Italy
Address
Via Santa Marta 3
50139 Firenze
Universidad de Cantabria
Spain
Address
S/n,avenida De Los Castros
39005 Santander
University of Plymouth
United Kingdom
Address
Palace Court
PL1 2DE Plymouth
Électricité de France (EDF)
France
Address
6 Quai Watier
78401 Chatou