Objectif
The aim of this programme has been to eliminate or considerably reduce the problems arising during the bonding process of the sole to the upper, when leathers are used as upper material.
The results so far are positive and patented by one partner. Treatments only performed on the assembly margin before cementing operations, permit simplification or suppression of buffing and carding operations, which mainly when dealing with thin hides of low hardness, may have unfavourable effects as regards both the quality and appearance of the final product. Furthermore, it was intended to develop an operation that can be easily automated. Laboratory tests have been corroborated by separation tests and wearing trials, and this enables us to envisage a technicoeconomic application that would be favourable for the footwear industry.
This research programme intended to maintain, the intrinsic qualities of hide, and in particular, the properties of grain adhesion on corium, during curing and conversion into leather. The research also intended to achieve improvements in the leather material cohesion through physical treatments, thermal treatments and chemical treatments.
From a shoe manufacturing point of view, and more particularly, as regards the product quality improvement, the significant role of the assembly operations joining the sole to the upper requires optimizing cementing operations.
Treatments were performed on the assembly margin before cementing operations, so that no harmful effect should be entailed on the feel of the hide and the shoe comfort. The aim was to simplify or suppress buffing or carding operations, which, when dealing with thin hides of low hardness, may have unfavourable effects as regards both quality and aspect of the final product. Furthermore, it was intended to develop an operation that could be easily automatized. Operations, currently available (buffing/carding) are mainly manual operations which has affects final product quality and price.
The curing of hides through refrigeration techniques, involving possible combination with a pretreatment using an antiseptic agent, allows finished leathers of a highly suitable quality to be attained. Although depilatory operations achieved with enzymatic agents give better results with refrigerated hides than with salt cured hides, the chemical process using lime and sodium sulphide is more appropriate. Indeed, the performances of hides that are subsequently stabilized by means of aluminium salts combined to an acrylic polymer, are significantly improved as regards tear resistance and tensile strength with a markedly improved surface state (reduction of wrinkles and ridges).
Leather cohesion is improved by the subsequent leather fatliquoring operations, which combines a fatty amino acid and a neutral fat. Simila r results were obtained after finishing operations involving a traditional process with polyurethane and acrylic compounds, or with ultraviolet (UV) rays crosslinkable resins.
Shoe manufacturing tests performed with the prepared bovine hides and with small hides (sheep leather, goat leather), demonstrated that buffing and carding operations could be suppressed when implementing the advised leather manufacturing treatments, and in particular, those carried out on the assembly margin.
Laboratory tests were corroborated by separation tests and wearing trials, allowing contemplation of a technico economic application that would be advantageous to the footwear industry.
THE MAIN OBJECTIVE OF THIS PROGRAMME IS TO INCREASE THE LEATHER MECHANICAL PROPERTIES (GRAIN ADHESION AND TEAR STRENGTH), ALLOWING NEW ADHESION ASSEMBLY AND DIRECT INJECTION PROCESSES FOR THE SHOE INDUSTRY.
A NEW CONCEPT OF SHORT CYCLE PRESERVATION OF RAW HIDES, BASED ON COMBINATION OF REFRIGERATION TECHNIQUES AND USE OF ANTISEPTIC IS TO BE ASSOCIATED WITH RAPID PRESTABILIZATION OF THE MATERIAL WITH COMPLEX ALUMINIUM SALTS, WHICH ALLOW TO KEEP THE WHOLE "PROPERTIES OF THE HIDE SUBSTANCE" AND TO IMPROVE THE PHYSICO-MECHANICAL PROPERTIES BY 30 %. THE IMPROVEMENT IN THE LEATHER QUALITY ALSO REQUIRE TO STRENGTHEN THE LEATHER STRUCTURAL COHESION (GRAIN-CORIUM) BY MEANS OF IMPREGNATING AGENTS.
IN ORDER TO TEST RESULTS UNDER INDUSTRIAL CONDITIONS, SHOES WILL BE MANUFACTURED WITH THE OPTIMIZED LEATHERS AND TESTED SO AS TO EFFECT THE REQUIRED IMPROVEMENT AT THE PHYSICO-MECHANICAL LEVEL AND TO ASSESS WITH ACCURACY THE ECONOMIC GAINS OF THE SHOE INDUSTRY AND TANNERY.
Champ scientifique (EuroSciVoc)
CORDIS classe les projets avec EuroSciVoc, une taxonomie multilingue des domaines scientifiques, grâce à un processus semi-automatique basé sur des techniques TLN. Voir: Le vocabulaire scientifique européen.
CORDIS classe les projets avec EuroSciVoc, une taxonomie multilingue des domaines scientifiques, grâce à un processus semi-automatique basé sur des techniques TLN. Voir: Le vocabulaire scientifique européen.
- ingénierie et technologie génie mécanique ingénierie thermodynamique
- sciences agricoles agriculture, sylviculture et pêche agriculture céréales et oléagineux
- sciences naturelles sciences chimiques science des polymères polyuréthane
- sciences naturelles sciences chimiques chimie inorganique métal pauvre
- sciences naturelles sciences chimiques chimie organique amines
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69367 Lyon
France
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