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Extreme waves: strongly nonlinear surface waves in the ocean

Ziel

The problem of understanding of extreme waves, including freak waves and tsunami, and their modelling represents a real challenge both from scientific and engineering points of view. Authors of the project, having a good experience to work in this field, will combine their efforts to achieve new results in theoretical description of large-amplitude ocean waves on a basis of improved and newly developed nonlinear models for water waves, in numerical modelling and in forecasting of consequences of extreme-waves effects. The statistical analysis of the large-amplitude wave height distribution will be done and some applications to the marine natural hazards (freak waves, tsunami) will be considered.

The following problems will be studied:
- New evolution equations for large-amplitude waves in higher orders with respect to nonlinearity and dispersion will be derived. Processes of evolution and instability of strongly nonlinear gravity waves in a fluid of arbitrary depth (finite and infinite) will be studied;
- Theory of solitary gravity waves with local vortex structure in a deep water near free surface within the framework of plane problem of hydrodynamics will be developed and a class of rational solutions corresponding to singular steady flows will be obtained;
- Laboratory modelling and numerical simulation based on new developed nonlinear evolution equations of large-amplitude wave group evolution will be done on;
- Mechanism of anomalous amplification of water waves due to the dispersion compression of spectral components will be studied including analysis of nonlinear effects. Kinematic equations for wave amplitude and frequency as well as nonlinear evolution equations will be employed as governing models;
- Data of observation of marine natural hazards (freak waves and tsunami waves generated by landslides and rockslides) will be collected and analysed from point of view of developed theory of large-amplitude water waves.

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Koordinator

Université de la Méditerranée
EU-Beitrag
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Adresse
IMT/Technopole de Château Gombert
13451 Marseille
Frankreich

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Beteiligte (5)

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Letzte Aktualisierung: 30 Oktober 2002

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Permalink: https://cordis.europa.eu/project/id/INTAS-1999-01637/de

European Union, 2024