Evaluation of the tolerance limits of fabric properties for optimizing garment manufacturing

Project Information

Grant agreement ID: CR164291-BRE21537

Project closed

Start date 1 January 1995

End date 31 December 1996

Funded under

• Specific programme of research and technological development in the field of industrial and materials technologies - CRAFT -, 1990-1994

Total cost No data

EU contribution No data

Coordinated by

Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitut an der Technischen Hochschule Aachen eV
Germany

Objective

There has been found a relation between certain mechanical fabric parameters and the propensity of the fabric to produce seam pucker.
In the project, a relation was found between the dimensional problems.
The results demonstrate the big importance of the quality control of the fabrics before garment manufacturing. It has been proven that identical fabrics may show important differences in mechanical characteristics. These differences may be caused by accidents or changes during the production of the fabric. If these are not under control, they may lead to important problems in the garment manufacturing.

The knit's physical - mechanical properties, which influence its behaviour in all the production process were determined and tolerance limits of the more relevant parameters defined. Problems, which may appear during the clothing manufacturing, if the physical - mechanical properties are not within the determined limits were identified. Precautions to take in production, when there is an adjustment of the machines, in order to avoid these problem were suggested. For all this a computer control system was developed.

The mechano-technological properties of wool fabrics were investigated with the Kawabata and the FAST system according to the problems in garment manufacturing. It was found out, how the fabric construction influences its properties and that the trends of the FAST and Kawabata results, measuring the same properties, are comparable. Which of the 86 fabric results of each fabric has a relevant influence on the appearance of the seams, sewn under different conditions, also were investigated. The influence of several sewing parameters on the seam appearance of wool fabrics concerning seam pucker has also been investigated. The changes of the seams and the fabric parameters due to pressing, dry cleaning and washing processes were analysed also to include these results in the optimization of the manufacturing processes.

Tolerance limits for wool fabrics for unproblematic sewing were defined and practicable conditions and settings for the pressing and cleaning process were given and inserted in a computer program. The conditions for unproblematic sewing of wool jackets have been proved under practice conditions.

Fields of science (EuroSciVoc)

CORDIS classifies projects with EuroSciVoc, a multilingual taxonomy of fields of science, through a semi-automatic process based on NLP techniques.

• engineering and technology › mechanical engineering › manufacturing engineering
• engineering and technology › electrical engineering, electronic engineering, information engineering › electronic engineering › control systems
• engineering and technology › materials engineering › textiles

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Programme(s)

• FP3-CRAFT - Specific programme of research and technological development in the field of industrial and materials technologies - CRAFT -, 1990-1994

Topic(s)

Data not available

Call for proposal

Data not available

Funding Scheme

CSC - Cost-sharing contracts

Coordinator

Deutsches Wollforschungsinstitut an der Technischen Hochschule Aachen eV

• EU contribution: No data
• Address: Veltmanplatz 8 ; 52062 Aachen ; Germany
• Total cost: No data

Participants (1)

Alsico NV

Belgium

• EU contribution: No data
• Address: 223,Zonnestraat ; 9600 Ronse
• Total cost: No data