Closing the loop on mixed-composition household textile waste
In the EU alone, an estimated 6.94 million tonnes(opens in new window) of textile waste was generated in 2022. The majority of this – 85 % – ended up in mixed household waste, from which it could not be reused or recycled. The EU-funded T-REX(opens in new window) project set out to demonstrate an EU-based circular textile value chain for post-consumer textile waste. With communication, commitment and coordinated effort across the value chain, T-REX piloted successful recycling of polyester, polyamide 6 and cellulosic materials and delivered a detailed blueprint(opens in new window) for integrated textile-to-textile (T2T) chemical recycling in Europe.
Key challenges addressed within T-REX
“Collection systems meeting our requirements did not exist at scale in Europe so we worked closely with partners to organise targeted batches of materials with the necessary feedstock characteristics,” notes T-REX technical coordinator Natalia Mena of adidas(opens in new window). Sorting remains a well-known bottleneck due to the complexity and variability of textile waste streams and largely manual textile sorting methods. T-REX’s pilots assessed collected clothing for reusability and then sorted non-reusable items using near-infrared technology to identify fabric composition for routing to recyclers. “Textile preprocessing emerged as an underestimated challenge,” says Mena. Available technologies are not yet developed for textile-specific applications. Sometimes neither sorters nor recyclers were preprocessing, necessitating third-party solutions. “We built expertise in preprocessing, finding solutions for process adaptations according to material type and quality,” Mena adds. “Data collection and tracking across the value chain proved complex and fragmented. While not fully resolved, the challenge yielded valuable insights documented in a dedicated white paper(opens in new window), underscoring data’s critical role in enabling better integration and operational decision-making,” notes Mena.
Techno-economic assessment and life cycle assessment
Realising a viable business case remains challenging due to interconnected barriers – limited and expensive high-quality feedstock and insufficient infrastructure at scale. Inefficiencies in textile sorting and preprocessing along with high European energy and labour costs increase operating expenses; increased use of automation and renewable energy sources can address this. Overall, scaling T2T recycling in Europe will require coordinated financial, regulatory and industrial efforts to stimulate demand, reduce costs and mobilise capital. The environmental life cycle assessment confirmed the strong potential of recycling to reduce the impacts of virgin fibre production, though benefits vary significantly by material type and recycling technology. Energy-intensive stages – both during recycling and in downstream steps such as dyeing – are key impact contributors. Energy efficiency and cleaner energy sources are priorities throughout the supply chain, while recycling processes should produce fibres compatible with advanced, low-impact manufacturing techniques. However, recycling is not a standalone solution: designing for durability and prioritising reuse are essential.
Towards future success and a circular textile economy
“United by a common ambition, major stakeholders across the European textile waste value chain – collectors, sorters, recyclers and spinners as well as universities, data partners and brands – were at the same table, creating a space for open dialogue and better understanding of each other’s roles and challenges,” notes Mena. Reduced commercial pressure as an EU-funded research project stimulated collaboration. Importantly, T-REX showed that mixed-composition garments are recyclable and that new products can be successfully created from T2T chemically recycled materials. Technical guidance for designers(opens in new window) will support the creation of recyclable garments beyond the ‘mono-material’ approach. Many project partners have begun follow-up projects, and T-REX shared best practices and knowledge with other EU initiatives. Overall, T-REX has demonstrated that a coordinated, EU-based circular textile value chain(opens in new window) is achievable with partnership, planning and adaptability.