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NEW MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUES FOR ECONOMICAL AND QUALIFIED PRODUCTION OF NEW TYPE OF FLAX PRODUCTS "NEOFLAX"

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The main results achieved by the research are:

- Further developments of the Steam Explosion technique, with the introduction of the "soft" STEX for treatment of fibres for wool like processing;
- A complete process and machinery redesign for spinning flax yarns on cotton like lines, both ring and Open End.
- New flax yarns, spun with the novel technique which have allowed the production of prototype garments both knitted and woven.
- Standards for the characterisation of flax yarns and their quality and their quality control methods.

The material studied and used for the research, falx fibres treated by STEX method, gave the Consortium a quality and capacity reference for the production of yarns Nm 12-Nm 20, through classical wool line system, with a standard hackling tow from LCN as well as yarns Nm 32 through classical cotton line ring and OE systems.

Trials carried out by the industrial Partners were used to choose the optimum layout of both cotton like and wool like production lines;
These last trial showed that it is now possible, with wool like lines, to spin Nm 12 with hackling tow treated by light steam and obtain good evenness, cleanliness, elongation, breakage rate, acceptable tenacity and noil percentage; the quality and performances of the spun yarns are acceptable up to Nm 16. For finer counts too many ends down were verified.
For what concerns cotton like lines it is now possible to spin, both with the ring spinners and the OE spinners, new types of flax yarns suitable for weaving and knitting applications.
Partner LCN was in charge of this last task and carried out semi-industrial tests which eventually lead to the production of sample garments, both knitted and woven, with the new type of flax yarns. Quality control tests carried out on such garments by Partner CTC showed good results and allow the Consortium to say that, especially for what concerns cotton type yarns, a new flax product is feasible at reasonable industrial cost and could eventually be put on the market in the next future.
The traditional flax preparation and spinning system is very time consuming and limited to a very special long fibre flax market, which is very dependant on traditional flax systems. Special machinery equipment fo flax opening and spinning processing is necessary, machinery which is the same since more than 50 years.

The steam explosion method for flax, developed at Reutlingen Institute for Flax, Germany, allows the production of special short staple flax fibres, whose properties line fibres lengths, fineness, strength and surface can be determined in that way, that processing in short staple spinning systems, as they are used for spinning of man-made fibres or cotton fibres, will be possible for flax too.

The agricultural crop flax, a natural fibre, produced traditionally in EEC-Countries could find a new consumer market.

Ultimate goal of the research project is the production of low cost of fine flax yarns (25-33 Tex, Nm 30-40) from 100% flax or blends with high percentage of flax fibres, because in these areas yarn production was up to now very difficult.

Wissenschaftliches Gebiet (EuroSciVoc)

CORDIS klassifiziert Projekte mit EuroSciVoc, einer mehrsprachigen Taxonomie der Wissenschaftsbereiche, durch einen halbautomatischen Prozess, der auf Verfahren der Verarbeitung natürlicher Sprache beruht. Siehe: Das European Science Vocabulary.

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CENTRO TESSILE COTONIERO E ABBIGLIAMENTO SPA
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