Protein analyses of ancient wools
Conventional methods of analysing ancient woollen fibres are insufficient. For this purpose, the project 'Textile and hair proteomics: Reexamination of European wool from archaeological deposits' (THREADS) developed novel testing methods based on protein analysis (called proteomics). Supported by EUR 230 000 in funding from the EU, the single-member project ran for 3 years till August 2012. THREADS initially compared the wools of certain breeds of domestic and wild sheep. Protein analyses confirmed their differences, especially in terms of short proteins, indicating varied wool properties. To evaluate fibres in archaeological contexts, four sets of wool samples were buried at experimental sites in Denmark, Norway and Sweden. The samples were dyed with various historical dyes and buried for up to eight years. Tests showed that burial conditions greatly affect degradation, giving rise to the various observed mechanisms of chemical degradation. Dyes were shown to have a protective effect. The project analysed mediaeval samples from the 9th to 15th centuries from four sites in York and Newcastle (United Kingdom), and Iceland. Samples showed good preservation and none of the degradation evident from the burial experiments. All experimental samples were compared for signs of ageing resulting from treatments, and all showed increased signs of ageing associated with dyeing. Samples experimentally buried showed the same effect of dye, though with far less ageing overall. Archaeological samples showed that thermal ageing is more important than actual age. THREADS made important progress in evaluating fibres in different archaeological contexts and treatments. The work advances this field of study, revealing interesting aspects of ancient life and providing insights on textile conservation.
Keywords
Wool, textile analysis, thermal ageing, protein analysis, ageing, burial conditions
