Periodic Reporting for period 1 - BIO4CARE (Green synthesis of sustainable BIO-sourced multi-functional ingredient for skin CARE applications)
Okres sprawozdawczy: 2021-05-01 do 2023-04-30
Nowadays, cosmetics and personal care products are considered essential commodities of our life, and their use has increased exponentially both in males and females in the last decades. The personal care market is largely driven by skin care products that are designed for beautifying, preventing skin from imperfections and protecting skin against the damaging effect of UV rays. Skin cosmetics, like topical formulations (i.e. creams and lotions) are generally based on water and oil as the main components in addition to other chemical functional ingredients, such as surfactants, emulsion stabilizers, skin conditioning agents, preservatives, fragrances and active ingredients like antioxidants and UV filters.
As a result of the regular use of personal care products, many chemical compounds are continuously released into the environment, posing a serious threat to ecosystems and human health. The widespread presence of surfactants, preservatives and chemical UV filters in aquatic ecosystems (i.e. seawater, rivers, lakes, groundwater and drinking water) derives from recreational activities and the inefficiency of wastewater treatment plants to eliminate them. These chemicals tend to bioaccumulate in marine sediments and bioconcentrate in living organisms (i.e. fish, seafood), becoming part or our food chain. Additionally, humans are exposed daily to these emerging contaminants through oral intake and percutaneous absorption. Their bioaccumulation in human fluids, such as urine, semen, breast milk and the bloodstream, has been recently reported. Although the real magnitude and potential effects of the input of these molecules and their metabolites into the human organism are still uncertain and a subject of research, latest results demonstrated that many of these chemicals exhibit hormonal activity, negatively influencing the reproduction systems of organisms and causing adverse health effects.
Consequently, not only is there a growing demand from consumers for chemical-free cosmetics but also from authorities to move towards sustainable raw materials to minimise the impact of cosmetic products on biodiversity. Therefore, the exploration of safe and sustainable natural alternatives is crucial. Lignin is the most abundant polyphenolic compound present in nature. Although there are several types of lignin in terms of chemical structure and molecular weight, depending on the origin and extraction processes, Kraft lignin represents the largest source of lignin since it is present in the black liquor which is generated as a side stream during cellulose pulp manufacturing in the papermaking process, which is usually burned for energy. In addition to its industrial availability, its structural features and diverse functional properties like antioxidant and UV protection capacity make it especially attractive for evaluation as a bio‐active alternative for cosmetics and personal care products.
BIO4CARE project aims to develop an innovative and safe bio-sourced ingredient from kraft lignin that can replace chemicals in skin and suncare products, thus increasing the sustainability of skincare formulations in the cosmetic industry.
As a result of the regular use of personal care products, many chemical compounds are continuously released into the environment, posing a serious threat to ecosystems and human health. The widespread presence of surfactants, preservatives and chemical UV filters in aquatic ecosystems (i.e. seawater, rivers, lakes, groundwater and drinking water) derives from recreational activities and the inefficiency of wastewater treatment plants to eliminate them. These chemicals tend to bioaccumulate in marine sediments and bioconcentrate in living organisms (i.e. fish, seafood), becoming part or our food chain. Additionally, humans are exposed daily to these emerging contaminants through oral intake and percutaneous absorption. Their bioaccumulation in human fluids, such as urine, semen, breast milk and the bloodstream, has been recently reported. Although the real magnitude and potential effects of the input of these molecules and their metabolites into the human organism are still uncertain and a subject of research, latest results demonstrated that many of these chemicals exhibit hormonal activity, negatively influencing the reproduction systems of organisms and causing adverse health effects.
Consequently, not only is there a growing demand from consumers for chemical-free cosmetics but also from authorities to move towards sustainable raw materials to minimise the impact of cosmetic products on biodiversity. Therefore, the exploration of safe and sustainable natural alternatives is crucial. Lignin is the most abundant polyphenolic compound present in nature. Although there are several types of lignin in terms of chemical structure and molecular weight, depending on the origin and extraction processes, Kraft lignin represents the largest source of lignin since it is present in the black liquor which is generated as a side stream during cellulose pulp manufacturing in the papermaking process, which is usually burned for energy. In addition to its industrial availability, its structural features and diverse functional properties like antioxidant and UV protection capacity make it especially attractive for evaluation as a bio‐active alternative for cosmetics and personal care products.
BIO4CARE project aims to develop an innovative and safe bio-sourced ingredient from kraft lignin that can replace chemicals in skin and suncare products, thus increasing the sustainability of skincare formulations in the cosmetic industry.
The scientific objectives of the project were successfully meet, resulting in four publications in peer-reviewed international journals and one more under preparation as well as participation in seminars and international conferences where the most relevant results of the project were shared. Moreover, during this period, the ER gained extra-scientific experience, reinforced interdisciplinary aspects of her research, and handled new analytical techniques and equipment.
She has been engaged in several outreach activities. She has been involved in a technical committees and scientific societies and in the organization of 2 international conferences and a technical workshop dedicated to the project. She has also set up the BIO4CARE website to advertise her project’s activities and updates. Moreover, in close collaboration with other experts of InnoRenew CoE, a survey has been prepared and distributed aiming at evaluating the customer’s potential acceptance of a lignin-based skincare product and exploring people’s awareness of the impact of chemical ingredients in personal care products on our health and environment. She also enhanced her project management capacities and organizational and mentoring skills, co-supervising a Master student from the University of Maribor. In addition, the collaboration with researchers from different areas of expertise, scientific visits to three international institutions, and meetings with industrial actors related to the BIO4CARE project have contributed to building a solid international academic and industrial network.
She has been engaged in several outreach activities. She has been involved in a technical committees and scientific societies and in the organization of 2 international conferences and a technical workshop dedicated to the project. She has also set up the BIO4CARE website to advertise her project’s activities and updates. Moreover, in close collaboration with other experts of InnoRenew CoE, a survey has been prepared and distributed aiming at evaluating the customer’s potential acceptance of a lignin-based skincare product and exploring people’s awareness of the impact of chemical ingredients in personal care products on our health and environment. She also enhanced her project management capacities and organizational and mentoring skills, co-supervising a Master student from the University of Maribor. In addition, the collaboration with researchers from different areas of expertise, scientific visits to three international institutions, and meetings with industrial actors related to the BIO4CARE project have contributed to building a solid international academic and industrial network.
Currently, the reduction or revalorization of industrial by-products is becoming a relevant social challenge. Kraft lignin is generated as an undervalued by-product from the pulp and paper industry and represents the largest source of lignin, producing around 100 million tons of kraft lignin worldwide. BIO4CARE project aimed to develop an innovative and safe bio-sourced ingredient from kraft lignin that can replace chemicals in skin and suncare products, thus increasing the sustainability of skincare formulations in the cosmetic industry.
The scientific results highlighted that the population has a positive attitude toward the environment and bio-based ingredients. In the cross-sectional study, participants were presented with a brief description of lignin, its production, and the properties of a sunscreen that would contain this ingredient and were asked if they would purchase such a product. While 3.5% would not buy a lignin-based sunscreen, 2.6% were unsure, 18.3% said “maybe”, 23.5% said “probably”, and 52.2% would buy it. This result confirms the demand of the population for more sustainable products and the associated available market for sunscreens.
In recent years, there is a growing concern about the environmental impact and human health risk related to the excessive use of chemical ingredients in skincare formulations calls for the exploration of innovative, functional and safe natural alternatives to increase the sustainability of skin and sun care products. The BIO4CARE project contributed to technological advances toward the suncare product development based on lignin polymer.
Moreover, with the communication activities lead by the ER to reach a broad audience and connected the ER with new start-ups created to deal with the valorization and conversion of lignin to high-value-added applications in the cosmetic sector and others.
The scientific results highlighted that the population has a positive attitude toward the environment and bio-based ingredients. In the cross-sectional study, participants were presented with a brief description of lignin, its production, and the properties of a sunscreen that would contain this ingredient and were asked if they would purchase such a product. While 3.5% would not buy a lignin-based sunscreen, 2.6% were unsure, 18.3% said “maybe”, 23.5% said “probably”, and 52.2% would buy it. This result confirms the demand of the population for more sustainable products and the associated available market for sunscreens.
In recent years, there is a growing concern about the environmental impact and human health risk related to the excessive use of chemical ingredients in skincare formulations calls for the exploration of innovative, functional and safe natural alternatives to increase the sustainability of skin and sun care products. The BIO4CARE project contributed to technological advances toward the suncare product development based on lignin polymer.
Moreover, with the communication activities lead by the ER to reach a broad audience and connected the ER with new start-ups created to deal with the valorization and conversion of lignin to high-value-added applications in the cosmetic sector and others.