Work performed before the first financial reporting: In relation to Compose, the study of the depositing functionalities and nanopatterns on existing textile yarns has progressed on two different fronts: both with the fundamental study of nanomaterial patterns deposited on existing yarns and filaments, as well as finding out ways of selectively depositing functionalities on coiled yarns. In order to establish a thorough structure to functionality assessment for coiled yarn shape-memory actuators, we have built and designed our own twister-coiler setup, which allows exact control of number and directions of different rotations. A scientific publication about the new twister-coiler, pictured in Figure 1, is ready to submit. Moreover, we have launched a collaboration with Prof. Patrick Rinke (Aalto University) about employing machine learning in order to find the optimized thermal actuator yarn design.
Shine has had a flying start in terms of establishing the potential materials library based on liquid-crystalline elastomers. There, significant advancements have taken place in collaborative work with Prof. Eugene Terentjev (University of Cambridge) to make LCE-based actuator filaments that are directly processable into fabrics via both different craft-based and industrial methods. A manuscript related to novel actuating fabrics (see Figure 2) is currently ready to submit, and we have established a plan for how we can reach photoactuation chemically modifying these yarns. On the side of thermochromic effects, multiple research fronts have advanced, but we haven’t yet
reached a breakthrough.
In Mingle, the prototyping of different textile architectures has started through existing materials, while we are waiting for the new yarns derived in Compose and Shine to be ready. In addition, novel ways to integrate the coiled yarn shape-memory actuators have been found both through hand-weaving and bobbin lace making (see Figure 3). The fabricated textile architectures already enable significant actuation – thus creating a possibility of truly employing them for instance in interior designs, such as curtains, to control the amount of incoming heat and thus contributing to autonomously climate-adaptive buildings. An exhibition related to these actuating fabrics is planned for December 2022.
In relation to overall working together in an interdisciplinary setting, we have been able to establish a well-working research ecosystem and we have also undertaken an ethnographic study about aspects that decelerate and – on the other hand - can support and facilitate interdisciplinary work. This study was disseminated in the conference of Design Research Society in June 2022 (
https://research.aalto.fi/en/publications/intertwining-material-science-and-textile-thinking-aspects-of-con(odnośnik otworzy się w nowym oknie)).
UPDATE August 2023 covering the work of the whole reporting period: The project began with the investigation of different methods to produce active yarns. In a first approach, double-layer filaments and highly-twisted coiled fibers were investigated to be integrated into different textiles. Different tools were developed for creating both double-layered polydimethylsiloxane yarn and introducing twisting into polyamide-based fibers. The actuation trigger mechanism for polyamide-based fibers was achieved by using materials features that respond to temperature and light. The spatiotemporal nature of photoresponsivity in some cases led to bending actuation, which was the first time to be reported, Figure 4 a-c.
Meanwhile, the application of creating functional coating to these active yarns with block copolymer (BCP) approaches has advanced through fundamental studies of potential BCP templates, which have been now published. Dip-coating of these coatings on polyamide yarns has been explored and some associated technical problems still need to be resolved. In addition, a less studied approach of using protein cages of plant viruses has been developed (see publication in Virology journal) – and we have showcased that these templates bind selectively both gold and silver nanoparticles.
In the second year of the project, a significant milestone was achieved by using Liquid Crystalline Elastomer (LCE) yarns. This advancement was made possible in a short time through a collaborative effort with a group from the University of Cambridge. The use of LCE yarn approached the goal of providing large-stroke and reversible actuation and providing outputs suitable for being used in standard textile production methods, such as weaving, and traditional crafts, like bobbin lace. The actuation results showed that different outcomes can be realized when combining passive and active yarns: (1) contraction of the overall structure, Figure 4 d-e; and (2) three-dimensional shapes from flat arrangements, Figure 4 f-g. This achievement was also published in the prestigious journal, Advanced Materials, and the related press release reached wide attention.
We are also developing a UV-curable yarn-spinning facility, and the design will be open-sourced. Once completed and fine-tuned, this facility will have the capacity to spin a substantial quantity of yarn. The construction of such equipment will open the possibility of extensive and rigorous scientific outputs, forecast its scalability impact, and enable potential collaborators to try alternative studies. For instance, artistic explorations can introduce different perspectives and offer insightful and creative solutions.
Textile architectures have been explored showcasing the integration techniques of the coils. The thermally responsive coils that contract when exposed to heat are integrated to textiles through weaving. The experiments aimed to study different weave structures, specifically the floats lengths of the weave structure, that provide maximum contraction and movement of the coils within the textile substrate. The experiments resulted in not only determining the optimal woven structures for integration but also in showcasing different movement patterns of the fabric itself when actuated. During the first stage of the research single layered fabrics integrated with actuating coils were woven with varying float lengths followed by exploring integration of actuators in multilayered fabrics.
Few of the different movement and deformation shapes of fabrics that were studied by manipulating weave structures and actuator placements have been presented in Figure 5.
The prototypes developed for the research have been submitted to be exhibited at TEXTILE INTERSECTIONS CONFERENCE 2023, Loughborough University London. By using different colors of jute strings, the behavior of yarns in more complicated bobbin lace structures can be studied and presented in larger scale. In small scale tests with cotton and LCE, it seems that tightness of structure and straightness of LCE effect a lot in the amount of actuation.
